THE STEERING IS SO LOOSE IT WILL NOT TURN AT ALL I REPLACED THE DRIVER CV JOINT

A wobble in the steering is more likely to be one of

- loose wheel nuts
- loose hub nut
- worn steering tie rod outer joint
- worn steering tie rod inner joint
- loose steering rod universal
- worn steering knuckle ball joint

Out of these a worn or loose steering tie rod joint is most likely. If you can, jack the front of the car up and rest it on axle stands, NOT just on the jack, then have one person shake the front wheel back and forth while holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock, while another holds the steering wheel still. Then look at and feel each joint to see if you can locate the looseness.

Most likely will be the CV joint needs to be replaced. CV's are around $60 each and I recommend do both at once and just get it over with. Takes a couple hours.

Sway bar could be the issue but not likely unless it's broken at the end link.

If its the bearings - you should feel a wobble in the steering wheel or if you put the car on a lift and try to wiggle the tire/wheel and it does have play in it - likely to be the bearings and you would hear a constant noise from that tire and the clunking would be more constant.

You could have a bad wheel bearing or a bad CV joint. Inspect your CV joint by turning the wheel all the way to the left and inspect the rubber boot for any signs of damage and see if there is any play by grabbing the CV joint and try to move it.
The other way to check is to drive the van slowly in an empty parking lot turning the wheel to one side and then the other. Listen for any abnormal noise and see if you can feel anything lose through you steering wheel.
If there is any signs of damage to the CV joint like oil leaking or movement. Replace the CV joint as soon as possible, and try not to drive the van till you have the CV joint replaced or the wheel bearing. Total CV joint failure will cause you to have the van towed to have it replaced. Try to drive it to the Garage to save you the tow cost.
Thank you for using fixya and be safe.

CHECK LOOSE DRIVE SHAFT BOLTS.WORN UNIVERASAL JOINT BEARINGS.

take it to the dealer. the steering shaft needs to be replaced with a larger one, dealer should cover cost if it is still under warrenty.

Ok, there is a 98% probability the CV joint needs to be replaced. I am hesitant to diagnose the tie rod ends because they do not "move" like the CV joint and wouldn't be making that noise. Also, it gets worse when you turn which is the CV joint popping on itself. You aren't feeling anything through the steering wheel so it can't be the ball joint or pittman arm. I am certain you need to replace the CV joint. If you do not know how to do it, please have a shop look at it because the front end will probably need to be realigned as well. Hope that helps!

1)Jack the front of the Chevy Cavalier up and support on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Turn the ignition key just enough to unlock the steering wheel. 2)Remove the cotter pin and large axle nut retainer in the center of the rotor. Remove the two large bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the spindle. Push in on the CV axle where it protrudes through the center of the rotor and make sure it is loose enough to push out. If it is not loose, then put the axle nut on upside down---turn it for only five to six threads. Tap it with a hammer to push the CV axle out of the hub. 3)Turn the steering outward with the steering wheel--if you are working on the driver's side turn the wheel to the left. This gives sufficient room to remove the axle. The other side should be done in the same manner. Remove the axle nut if you used it to hammer the axle out, then grab the extension of the spindle above the rotor and pull it down and toward you as you grab the CV axle and withdraw it from the hub. 4)Put a drip pan under the CV joint at the point it enters the transmission in case there is any fluid loss. Place the head of the pry bar between the transmission and the CV joint. With a quick snap of the tool separate the CV joint from the transmission. There is a small circlip on the end of the CV joint that keeps it in place. Prying it with a quick snap will overcome the friction of the circlip and the CV joint will pop out. 5)Install the new CV axle by inserting the axle end into the transmission first. It will go in as far as the circlip. Back it out ever so slightly--about a half an inch or so, and sharply shove it in past the circlip. 6)Grab the spindle at the extension above the rotor with the holes for the strut. While pulling down and toward you install the outer end of the CV joint. To do this easily bend the CV joint toward the hole in the rotor and push into the hole while rotating the rotor to line up the splines. 7)Install the retaining nut finger tight. While lifting up on the hub and rotor assembly, push the top of the spindle with the holes in it into the strut and insert the bolts and nuts. Tighten them securely. Torque the large retaining nut to 200 foot pounds. Repeat the same procedure to the other side. Put the wheels on and let the car off the jacks. cheers!!!!!!

cv joints can check good and still be dry internally and this will cause the clicking....have the cv joints replaced....

Front wheel drive cars have CV joints in the axles to permit the wheel to turn for steering. The CV joint is basically a universal joint on steroids. When they ware out it can cause this type of condition.

Might be a front end problem, like a worn tie rod end, upper and/or lower ball joint. Better have it checked, if one of them break, you'll loose the steering.