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Anonymous Posted on Feb 22, 2018

Hi the driver side window sounds like glass or crackling noise sounds like glass grinding the moter seams to work and i have a new swtich but the window does not go up or down when i press the button it sounds like grinding noise took off door panle the window is fine wont go up or down

1 Answer

Jem

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  • Expert 212 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2018
 Jem
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Joined: May 22, 2009
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I believe your window winder (scissor lift) unit needs replacing, I hope this helps....

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009

SOURCE: drivers side power window wont work

If you can hear the realy clicking the power is there the motor is dead

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Anonymous

  • 83 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 06, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Ford expedition window problem

Sounds like you need a window motor. Try hitting in center of door trim panel to see if you can get it to work if so replace motor.

Anonymous

  • 672 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 21, 2009

SOURCE: My Ford F150 XLT Triton driver's side power window

window regulator failure. Check window regulator guide for damage. If damage replace!! Hopefully this helps

Anonymous

  • 291 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 24, 2010

SOURCE: driver side door window wont go down it sounds

CLICKING GRINDING SOUNDS... THE WINDOW MOTOR ASSY IS BAD.. THE GEAR CAMS ARE GONE... CHEAPEST WAY IS TO REMOVE THE MOTOR AND REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE GEAR HOUSING..GO TO ADVANCE AUTO AND FIND THE GEAR CAM KIT....THEY DO SELL IT IF YOU GET A LAZY PERSON BEHIND THE COUNTER THATS DOES NOT WANT TO LOOK FOR IT..IT SHOULD BE 3 PIECES THAT JUST SIT INTO THE SLOTS .. YOU WILL SEE HOW IT GOES

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Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2011

SOURCE: drivers side window does not work it went down but

Master switch failures are common - especially when they have the "Auto Down" feature. Ford started this in the late production 2002 models - your may or may not have this..Motor failures are also common. You can test the circuit very easilly using a simple test light and a couple of jumper wires. Pull the master switch up out of the door. (Be careful not to break the snap-clip mounts)

The Light Blue/Black wire is your main battery feed into the switch. This should be hot any time the ignition switch is on.
The solid Black wire is your main ground.
The White/Black and the Tan/Light blue wires go to the driver's window motor. If you check these wires with your test light, one should be hot and the other should be ground when you operate the switch. In one direction (Up or Down) The White/Black wire will be hot and the Tan/Light blue wire will be ground. When you operate the switch in the other direction, the Tan/Light Blue wire will be hot and the White/Black wire will be ground. If it does not work like this, replace the master switch (Make sure you test for both power and ground in each direction...you can test for power by connecting your test light to the Black wire and you can test for ground by connecting your test light to the Light Blue/Black wire)

If the switch is operating as described above, replace the window motor.

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it is not off track. the grinding or metal scratching noise is from the window regulator cable that has broke off from the plastic idler pulley on regulator and is now wound up on the motor. you need a new window regulator.
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Drivers side window not working. I can manually move it up in down with my hand but the power window does not move when the switch is used. All other windows work. Drivers side makes a clicking/grinding...

IF there is a grinding noise then the motor is trying to move, so take out he unit and try to see if the motor works , if so the mechanism is faulty or the motor does not have power in the drive.
can be the driver switching the motor or the motor itself. Replace after testing the transistor drive.
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a metallic grinding sound is probably the noise you hear. this indicates the need for a new (or salvage) window regulator (your window lift mechanism). I usually suggest a dealer part and get a local glass shop or your favorite mechanic to replace. If you've been inside a door panel, this may be your next project.
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THE ONLY WAY TO FIND AND TRY AND FIX PROBLEM THAT IS YOU'LL HAVE TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANELS THAT ARE MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND, AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PANEL TRY TO OPEN THE WINDOW WITH THE REMOTE AND THIS TIME YOU'LL SEE WHATS MAKING THE GRINDING SOUND...MY GUESS IS THAT THE GLASS COULD BE OF THE TRACK. AND WHEN YOU USE THE REMOTE THE FORCE OF MOTOR AND GLASS CAUSES THE GRINDING SOUND..
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the window regulator sounds like it needs replaced
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it is possible the regulator is fine and it just came unattached from the glass. Grasp the glass and try to move it up and down if it will move up and down tape it up until you get it fixed. If it seems like it is still attached then yes likely you will need to replace the regulator.
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1994 Camry wagon, passenger side electric window.(front seat)

Can you hear the moter or do interior lights dim when pressing button? If so remove door panel and lubricate tracks and rolers using lithium grease lube only the tracks that do not come in contact with glass.

Check the connections at the switch and at the moter with a volt meter if there is power than time for a new moter. no power than check at drivers side switch. If no power there and fuse is ok you have a open in wires and will have to trace entire circut
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this is a regular problem with gm cars and trucks. you probably need a window lift moter.if the glass is lose and wigles in the frame. you need a window regulater with lift moter. good luck
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