1997 Ford Expedition Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jan 26, 2018

I have a 1997 ford expedition which lurches when it runs it sometimes stalls at a light or stop sign. The rpm go from normal to zero then jumps back up again. I've changed the egr valve and the sensor and the 3rd compoment. I've also changed ther iar valve and both oxygen sensors help.

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cartoys4u

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  • Posted on Jan 26, 2018
cartoys4u
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Joined: Jun 18, 2009
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The surging usually comes from the IAC hunting to maintain a stable idle. usually your symtoms occur from a vacuum leak of some sort. plastic intakes are sometime found to be cracked from heat embrittlement. spray the top of the engine with brake clean when running. if the idle changes when spraying in a certain area you are locating the vacuum leak. the idle will change when the engine sucks in the brake cleaner.

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: I changed EGR valves, selinoid, sensors, and even

go to auto zone or someone with a scan tool to find out what codes are stored on the computer in the car

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Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2009

SOURCE: 1997 ford thunderbird 4.6 keeps coming up with

U don't say codes but most likely the sensor codes are just responding to a problem in the engine, mainly and most common is a lean fuel/air mixture, this is most often caused by vacuum leaks, it only takes a small leak to set the lean codes for the O2's and turn the check engine light on, I am a 25 Year Ford dealer tech and this is the common cause of O2 fault codes, to check for vacuum leaks get a bottle of propane and attach a piece of rubber hose to the end, spray propane around the top of the engine, work slowly and hit all vacuum hoses and the top and edges of the intake manifold, if u hit a leak you will hear the engine change tone most times or increase in rpm slightly, then look closely for the leak, it can be leaking intake gaskets or a cracked rubber vacuum line, even a leaking Vacuum brake booster can set these codes, if u don't find anything obvious it is time to have the dealer hook up there scanners and look at what is going on in the fuel system to create the O2 codes, don't hang anymore parts on, u have already wasted about $100 I would guess.

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0helpful
1answer

What makes the car start and run but gauges go off and key light comes on

The first part is magic, (EFI system and good engine)
but?????
gauges go off can be a bad fuse or loose fuse to cluster.
when any Gas engine stalls. the RPM drops to 0
the EFI sees that and goes to key on, not started self test.
this is covered in the operator guide.
key light comes on KEY LIGHT, HUMMMMMMM
Let me look at the waring lamps, there are many.
one light is engine overheat that is logo of a thermometer but looks
just like a key.
http://dashboardsymbols.com/the-symbols/
is this a engine stall post
or engine runs perfect all the time , but only my dash acts funny
you didnt say?

key lamp?
immoblilzer (big trouble there)

a stall is anytime engine RPM drops to zero. called a STALL.
if your cars engine stalls, post that way, the lamps are all normal
on at any stall, on any car.
at a stall , rpm goes to zero and MPH drops to zero as you coast to a stop , stalled. that is all normal for any stall.

if engine stalls.
that is complex.
here is list.
  1. lost 12vdc power to EFI system. (battery died, fuse blown)
  2. never gave your car the 60,000 mile tune up, see opr, guide.
  3. bad fuel.
  4. overheated the engine.
  5. engine oil gone, never ever checked at each fill up.
  6. other more complex EFI system parts failures, ASK.
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05 Suzuki XL7 wouldnt sart. Then started and idled up to 3000 rpm and back down. Batt light, air bag light, ck engine light, and 4wd flashing. In reverse it accelerated on its own. Depressed gas pedal in...

id go for chicken feet and blood and voodoo , sessions.....loL

first off, i see an illegal fast idle ,
and all A/T trannys do that, when the engine rpm fraks up.
to move car, due to the stall speed rules of the clutch torque converter (aka ,the fluid clutch) wiki clutch stall speed.

that A/T weakness, is why folks run over kids. (the lame excuse)
starting a car with foot off the brake is , folly, thus the lock all outs called park lock features.

i can not follow your sequence of events.so will ask questions.
1: I start the engine, its don't want to but does. (ever tune it up?)

2: Does the CHECK engine lamp go out (CEL/SES)? running.
for sure, if the engines stalls many lights will glow in the cluster but that is normal, see? for any stall.!
The Charge light comes on anytime the Alternator goes dead
or hits near 0 RPM (stalled)
so are you saying at 3000 rpm, the charge lamp came on.
/??????
battery lamp is not battery, its really a Charge lamp.
the op guide states that too.
on my car I have a battery gauge too, and shows VOLTS.
at idle its 14v. its 14v at all rpm. if less, say so.
I have 2004. GV. with full manuals. even factory FSM. ++++++

ok , in drive, no acceleration, are you saying ,
1: im in A/T drive.
2: the engine is idling at 800 RPM hot or near 1500 cold
3000 is wrong, dead wrong, you in ALASKA, state location(gen)

i increase the RPM with my right foot and the car don't move
in DRIVE
as RPM rises above 1500 RPM, you do have a tacho , i see that.
if it does not move with hgher RPMs, the trans is bad or its TCM is bad.
on your car the TCM is hidden deep inside the PCM. back in 1997.

the PCM runs the engine and tranny today.
if something lies to the TCM/PCM the tranny will not go into drive.
on newer 96+ cars, you see the check engine lamp glow.
running (not stalled, stalling this CEL glows all the time)
but running, the CEL glowing means Faults found, scan me,. please.
eg:
so you scan it, and find DTC's stored (many?) eg.... in english...
the transmission selector switch is bad. or worse.
not using a scan tool ,means ($7 cost) means you miss all the facts. hard cold real facts.
the ECU can not shift any car with a bad selector switch.
so throws the DTC error.
it can be even be a loose selector cable, cave man simple.

recap.
does the CEL lamp stay out running at all times.
no, ? then scan it.
do not post car problems with stored, or pending DTCs on any car newer than 1995. or its just wild guessing.. mostly.
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1997 Ford Escort stalling when going 35 mph or less.

You may need to be looking at your Torque Converter being in LOCK UP and forcing it to stall because the Transmission is not letting go of the Motor...

You may also have a Plugged CAT CONVERTER

Test the Temp BEFORE and AFTER.. There should be an INCREASE of at least 100 degrees on the BACK from the Front
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My 2001 Beetle stalls when I stop at a red light, won't idle

I also have a problem with my 2001 beetle my brakes jam on as soon as you touch the brake pedel and the only way to release then is to release the nipple on the caliper can any help its driving me mad
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Idling problems

Likly vacume leak. does it have the 4 litre straight 6? if so spray aero start at nr 1 & 2 intake to head & see if rpm changes.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition Just drove it home

Is it running rough as well? If so sounds like the timing chain may have jumped.
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Vehicle shuts off sometimes when stopping

Set your idle speed to mfg recomindation if that doesnt help check the dash pot that is what keeps the engine from stalling at sudden speed reduction
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