Check if your injectors with the electrical meter with ohmmeter you should have around 12 ohms on each if you have above 15 ohms that's mean your injector is going bad it has problems ,easier way to check its if you will start the car with cold engine and go by the mufflers and if you will hear from one of the mufflers kinda shoots that's mean on this side of engine is the injector going bad ,the other things it might be mass air flow ground (-) wire which has some bad connection ,if not check all the connections on the ignition coils and injectors,check your spark plugs, and on the end if this problem will continue check your knock sensor!
I had this exact same problem and it was the Crank Angle Sensor and Crank Angle Sensor connector shorting out at High RPM.
THe solution was to put some electro-conductive grease on the connector the the sensor.
You'll find the sensor on the driver side near in front of the engine.
Its your maf sensor. ECU goes into limp mode when your maf craps out to prevent damage to the motor and wont go over 2400 rpm and its very precise. When this happens to american cars they start to run on a preset map the ecu has programmed into it and you'll just get really crappy gas milage. Personally I think that it just tears up your U joints because of all the lurching. I just fixed this on my 96 300zx n/a and i thought it was an injector,coil pack,fuel filter etc.
It might be a fuel injector going bad
Have already installed a new clear filter and have fuel in the filter.
Hmm...can be a clogged fuel filter.
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Have a 84 nissan 300zx non turbo, 5 speed, 119000 miles. This problem comes and goes. When I drive the car (no matter which gear) and get to 2400 rpm's the vehicle just shuts down, no power and ac stops blowing cold. If I stay on the gas pedal and let the rpm's drop to 1500 the car starts running again. I can trick the car into running again by putting the clutch in and let the rpm's drop below 1500 and slow down a couple mph, then let off the clutch and the car pulls. As long as I keep the rpm's below 2400 no problem.
I have the same problem -- 1991 300 zx normal aspiration 5 speed. cuts out at 2500 rpm. Have to let it drop below that. Did changing the fuel filter work?
I have the same problem. 1991 300zx normal aspiration, 5 sp. Cuts out above 2500 rpm. Starts shuddering, lurching. Have to drop back below 2500. Did changing the fuel filter work?
Take the connectors off of the power transistor unit, coil packs and fuel injectors and clean off all of the green corosion with electric contact cleaner that is safe for use on plastic, then use diaelectric grease to keep the moisture out. Next with the car running try removing 1 coil pack connector at a time (then replace), you should hear a definate change in the tone of the engine when you come to one that does nothing check the coil pack, then plug finally injector or could be a valve (normally fuel injector) causing a dead cylinder, hope this helps, going through the same thing myself on a 1990 300zx 2+2 N/A.
SAME THINGS UP WITH MY 91...SHITTY I KNOW...
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