Most possible as you have confirmed the status of the actuator to be working and that there is no +12 volt to the window unit ,is a BREAK or OPEN wire int he harness to the door.
This could have snapped at the hinges or there is damage to the harness. A good visual check on this to back trace must get you to the problem.
To confirm that there is a break you can find out the + 12 to the independent circuit on the door. Make sure that an external link with the +12 will get the door lock to work.
This will confirm our theory of an open connection.
Tip: you can remove the other door to get the circuit voltage details , make a detailed marking and compare.
Between the door and the door hinged pillar you will see the rubber conduit the wires go through from the body to the door. The wires inside that part will tend to break causing this problem
check that out and splice the wire(s) to repair
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It wasn't a broken wire. There is an added relay for this dutch door option..located inside the rear passenger side panel.. the common and n/c contacts pass current to the window actuator when the key cylinder is pushed in, except when the door locks are initiated and the common moves to the normally open side, blocking current to the window actuator for some reason. The common and n/c contacts were evidently burned and open. I replaced the relay and all works now.
I found the problem by reverse tracing the wiring back to a faulty relay located in the passenger rear quarter panel.. then reverse engineering and making schematics. when the window button is pushed, current is passed between the common and the n/c side of the relay contacts.. These contacts were not making connection within the relay, most likely burned. The only purpose of the relay is to keep current from flowing to the window actuator when the door locks are being engaged. I suppose this is to keep the window from popping open while your trying to lock the vehicle and accidently push the key lock button at the same time. This arrangement is only for the dutch door option and I have not been able to find schematics.. I replaced the relay and all is ok now. Thanks for the info but I am a 40 year electronics tech and already eliminated a broken wire as a possibility.
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