Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.
Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:
Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):
Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.
You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.
Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".
SOURCE: head bolt torque
They have this listed under a 2007 E-350 but I new it couldn't be. Any how the torque specs are as follows. The big bolts 1-26 are to be torqued first they are torqued to 120 ft. lbs. then rechecked to 120 ft. lbs. Then tightened 1/4 turn or 90 degrees. After that that loosen all the bolts up till the washers are loose again then perform the exact sequence all over again. After that tighten the small bolts on the outside part of the cylinder head all 7 of them to 20 ft. lbs. Good luck.
SOURCE: Conversion kgf.m to foot pounds.
1 kilogram meter = 7.233 013 831 6 pound foot
you can use a online converter like the http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm
3.5 kilogram meter = 25.315 548 411 pound foot
4.5 kilogram meter = 32.548 562 242 pound foot
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Foot pounds (Final torque)
Note:
Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
Foot pounds (Final torque)
Note:
Torque sequence --------- | 8 4 1 5 | | 7 3 2 6 | front --------- of engine | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | Step 1: torque to 40 Ft/Lbs --------- Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) thatpermanently stretch during the initial installation.New head bolts must be used when cylinder head isreplaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.
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