I own a 2007 chevy uplander v6 95k miles and the cooling fan comes on 20 seconds after car is running. I traced the fuse block to fan#3 by removing fan relay to know which fan is being told to run. it only comes on when running and not in key in and turned to almost run (on). I have checked the fluid levels and they are normal now. (had to add 1/2 gallon to the overflow). any help? Rick

Why ? Did you test ? Hook up a scan tool to see if the PCM/ECM - engine computer is reading coolant temp. ? Testing not guessing ? Do you even know how the system works .

The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the engine control module (ECM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block.
During low speed operation, the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay, which is Fan 1 Relay, through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the low speed fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from Fan 1 Fuse 29 through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the Series/Parallel relay, which is the Fan 2 Relay, and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. The ECM supplies a ground path for the high speed fan relay, which is the Fan 3 Relay, and the Series/Parallel through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the Series/Parallel relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the Fan 3 Relay coil is energized, the relay contacts close to provide battery positive voltage from Fan 2 Fuse 33 on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
When the request for fan activation is withdrawn, the fan may not turn OFF until the ignition switch is moved to the OFF position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 10 mph. This is to prevent a fan from cycling ON and OFF excessively at idle.

Check the sensor in the bottom of the radiator is connected and working.The water has to get hot before they come on near boiling point,the air con switch over ride s the normal sensor.

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It would be useful if you had mentioned whether it was a radiator cooling fan motor or a heater/ventilation fan.

It is usual for the cooling fan to switch on with the A/C is on unless the ambient temperature is quite low, otherwise it only operates subject to engine coolant temperature via a thermal switch fitted into the cooling system and/or the engine management system.

The heater fan is either directly switched and faults relatively simple to trace or subject to the whims of the climate control if fitted when a degree in magic is needed along with a box of tricks.

there is 2 fuses that you have to check
one will be in the big fuse assembly in the engine bay, the other probably in the fuse assembly in the cab
If they prove ok then it is possible that the coolant temperature SENSOR is faulty and needs replacing
don't confuse it with the temperature sender which operates the temp gauge.

You have a short somewhere causing a severe power draw. When you say cooling fan do you mean the radiator fan or AC blower fan ?

You need to have your cooling system pressure tested. This will let you examine the engine area without the hazards of the engine running. You may have head gasket issues. Depending on the area of the leak, your cylinder compression can actually pressurize the cooling system. When the cooling system pressure exceeds the rating of the cap, the cap seal opens and can blow coolant back into the overflow bottle where it eventually leaks while driving. Check to see if your overflow bottle is full.

Hi Bajil, Have a diagnostic scan carried out and have the coolant temperature sensor and relay inspected for correct operation. It sounds as if a cable has become disconnected or that the operating circuit has become defective. The cooling circuit operation is correct when the fan operates when the engine temperature raises a fraction above normal. The fan will run for a number of seconds and then switch off, thereby maintaining the 'normal' operating temperature. Regards John

I would hook up a scanner to see what temperature your sensor is sending to the computer.

sounds like the vehicle needs to be serviced by a dealer. is it under 36000 miles? factory warranty runs 3 years or 36K whichever comes first. check with your local dealer or the NHTSA for related recalls or TSBs