On my 97" Suburban do

Why? What are you trying to do? If you want to remove the pump to replace it, you must first remove the pulley using a special tool, often these can be borrowed from parts store.

it requires a special pullerthat you can rent at autozone.

for the fronts all you need is a set of metric sockets and a ratchet,use a c clamp to push back the caliper piston.remove the caliper mount bracket and rotor is out reverse install. now for the back if rotors have emergency brake using the same pads then you will have to buy a special tool to help you screw in the caliper piston tool costs lees then ten dollars.small cube with universal pins on each side also to be used on other vehicles.

This is not the first mis-guided post I've seen about this. A screwdriver for the set screw is fine on some models. Other models the front wheel bearings must be removed and usually replaced to get the rotors off. The bearings are fairly cheap at the local napa etc.. So just replace them. Be careful of the advise given on here. People think that one answer covers all models. This is not the case. Usually given buy a youngster who honestly beleives hes a mechanic.

standard hand tools, remember to have the rotors turned by a machine shop.

you could definetely have a problem with your front end brakes, thats where i would look first, see if the pads are worn down and what kind of shape the rotors are in.
second, if you dont have brake problems, then i think id look at how the tires are wearing, you may have an alingment problem.
hope this helps
would appreciate your feedback
thanks

this is a problem that happens alot you have to use an impact driver for this and a impact torx bit. the driver is a cylinder shaped tool with a 3/8 drive head. you get the impact torx the the impact driver and a hammer. the tool is inexpensive and will do the trick.

You need to remove the locking hub on the outside in the middle then you need a special axle nut removing tool you can get at any parts store for about 10.00 then the whole hub will slide off with rotor, make sure and pay attention to the nut, washer and other nut that need to be removed as there is a pi in one of them so the nuts wont loosen and come off while driving!

'B6' (2001-2004) A4s dont have seperate rotors on the rear brakes like the pre 2001 A4s do. When changing the rear pads + discs the only special tool you will need is a caliper wind back tool. Let me know if you do also need to replace any ABS components aswell as I might be able to advise.

First I feel compelled to get on the soapbox and say ALWAYS replace brake components as sets (Driver AND Passenger Side) to avoid some nasty side affects from disproportional application of the huge forces used in the braking system (like having the wheel ripped out of your hand as the truck dives off in one direction or the other or having one wheel lock up while the other spins freely).

I've changed the rotors on my 1/2 manual hub and 3/4 ton automatic hub 1988 models, so I can tell you from personal experience that if you're reasonably competant with a tool box, doing the job on a half ton is a piece of cake and the Haynes manual and a special socket you can buy at any auto parts store should be all you need. The 3/4 is an entirely different beast though, using a rotor that is wedgemated to the hub and ground true after the fact, so considering that I wouldn't touch that job myself with 30 years experience as an automotive and aircraft mechanic because of the tooling involved, it's pretty safe to say you probably shouldn't either.

One word of warning on the hubs. Unless you're an expert on the specific hub you've got, make certain that you can re-assemble the unit exactly as it came apart. I take advantage of the camera on my cell phone these days on just about every job 'just in case', but that's only one of many options.

Good Luck!