The engine its shaking I switch one of the ignition coil because it look really burn and wasn't working now the shaking still when I start the car and while I drive in 10,20, and 30 miles it feel very severe (shaking) but when I drive in 40 miles or up it doesn't that bad almost nothing. please can anybody help

Is the computer throwing any codes? Shaking is usually indicative of a misfire condition. Your car will throw a P030X with X being the cylinder causing the fault. If you have any really dead parts, there will be codes pointing at them (injectors, coil packs,sensors, etc.). Proper firing requires 3 things: ignition, fuel and compression. Figuring out what is really wrong is called diagnosis and will save you money every time.

Sounds definitly mechanical. Also symptoms of spark plug failure or ignition failure of sort, spark plug wires, cap , rotor or coil, or coil pack, ignition module, etc... Therefore the shaking and rough idle. Also a loose terminal at the ECM (computer) would also cause the (miss-fire).

Most likely the ignition switch or the rod in the steering column is sticking and keeping the switch engaged, possibly the ignition lock cylinder is sticky too. Easy to get lock cylinder out with a small punch that depresses a pin when the lock cylinder is in the run position, look under the steering column by the switch for a hole to poke the punch into and then pull out the lock cylinder.

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-Check compression. It could be blown head gasket or burn valve.

Good luck

Mai

have a lot of things on key ring, replace ignition switch. pull key shake ignition switch ,if stops bad switch

coils come in t different voltages for two different wiring applications in cars.. Let me give you a sample . Car A ignition is 12 volts so there is a 12 volt coil fitted IT starts on 12 volts and runs on 12 volts. no problem .BUT car B ignition system is divided into 2 sections The start section is 12 volts so that the coils get maximum voltage fro starting but in the run position the circuit switches to a resisted circuit so that the coil only gets 7.5 volts . Now if you put a resisted coil in a 12volt car (A) then the coil will burn out very quickly as there is no resistance circuit to protect it. The General (GM) use a resisted wire from the ignition switch to the coil so that you have 2 wires on one terminal and one wire to the distributor. Check which coils you have been using as you will see on the bottom a note --use with resistor--. Second point if you leave the ignition on and the engine is not running then there is a current that is passing through the coil and this is an electric field and that will (like and induction heater burn up the coil

check that you are fitting the correct voltage coils into the vehicle . There are 2 voltages . One is a start 12 v run 12volts and the other is start12v run 7.5 volts . It uses a resistor either in the coil or the wire from the ignition. The voltages are stamped into the coil housing. If you have a start 12v run 7.5 and it is burning then check that there is 7.5 volts on the run circuit and not 12 volts. Second point do not leave the ignition turned on to run accessories when the engine is not running as the coil will still get voltage continuously instead of a pulse and will overheat and burn out. Use the accessories side of the switch position.

If the shaking is caused by the engine missing (a misfire on 1 or more cylinders), then
check your (a) spark plug wires - pull each and check for continuity/faults/burn marks/etc., (b) spark plugs - pull each & check for fouling/faulty/etc.
Another good check for spark plug wires is to park in a dark area at night (open garage with the
lights out works), run the engine and observe the engine operate in the dark - little lights caused by
faint arcing means that the wires are leaking electricity to the engine block, instead of delivering it
to the spark plugs, like they should.
Your particular car has a Distributorless Ignition System (DIS), consisting of an ICM (Ignition Control
Module) connected to an individual coil pack for each pair of cylinders. You'll need a
HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition system tester (about $30-$45 any auto parts store) to test
these coil packs, which I have found quite easy to replace (usually a couple of 10mm cap screws).
Since the car shakes only when accelerating or going uphill, I tend not to think that suspension
components of the car are at fault.

it most likely is the coil, but recheck the spark plugs and spark plug wires just in case one of the new wires are touching a hot exhaust manifold..

If the engine is misfiring and that is the source of the shaking then the check engine light will be flashing like crazy, other wise it is not the engine causing this, I know was a Ford tech for 25 years.