Remove the axle stub retaining nut, disconnect the lower ball joint, disconnect the tie rod end, pull the spindle out and away from the axle stub tapping on the end of the stub if necessary with a hammer (just be careful) to pull the bearing hub loose from the axle stub. after separating the outside slide under vehicle (make sure the car is on jack stands and the rear wheels are blocked from rolling and very secure before crawling under any vehicle) look at where the inside axle stub goes into the transmission. you'll need a good sized pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. work the pry bar in between the inside axle stub and a good thick part of the transmission and pry the axle away from the trans., there is a snap ring on the inside axle stub that internally retains the axle you have to pry hard enough to compress the snap ring into the axle groove which will release the axle for removal. it's not a bad idea to replace the axle seal in the transmission while you're there but if it's not leaking and you don't damage it in the removal of the axle it's not necessary. measure and compare the new axle to the old one, it may have some differences in the shaft like missing vibration dampeners but if it's the same length and both axle stubs match the old ones in size and number of teeth you should be good. when you install the new axle line it up by hand and slide it in as far as possible manually then tap it in with a wooden or rubber mallet. if you don't have a mallet use a scrap of wood to protect the new axle stub threads and tap it in with a hammer. after you feel the snap ring collapse and the axle slide in tap on it gently to make sure it's fully seated then grab the inner axle stub and tug on it to insure the snap ring is in place. then reassemble in reverse order of removal making sure all nuts and bolts are tightened properly and all retainers are in place. good luck
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