When I'm in 4 wd the front wheels feel like the brakes are being applied when I make a sharp turn. No problems when driving straight or in 2 wd.

1. I would not be concerned because if there was a failure in the ABS you would definitely get an ABS warning light and the ABS and most likely the stability control/traction control systems (with added warning lights) will all switch off .

2. You can test if the ABS is operational. On a very quiet damp surface, straight, wide road( with NO other cars around), apply your brakes hard from a very low speed - up to 20 mph ONLY driving in a straight line - until the car stops. The front brakes should attempt to lock up under hard braking and if the ABS is operational you will feel it kick in and the brake pedal will pulsate as the ABS constantly allows brake pressure and then releases it to prevent the wheels from locking up on the damp road. If the ABS does not kick in be ready to release the brake pedal quickly to allow the wheels to rotate so you can steer the car safely. Without the ABS the front wheels should begin to lock up on the damp road surface due to the low level of tire grip. ONLY test this at very low speed and ONLY when driving in a straight line on a straight section of wide road with no other vehicles around.

get the pads and brake rotor cked out probably worn out.

Before jacking the wheels off the ground, use an appropriate socket with a solid drive size (1/2 inch drive usually works) ratchet or drive handle, and bang it with a sizable rubber mallet to loosen the lugs. In extreme situations, penetrating oil or WD-40 can be applied and let set for a few minutes before trying...

take to an alignment shop, no sense in describing the problem when a look with a machine will tell you what's up.

if both front wheels are dragging it is probably the master cylinder, if only one wheel is dragging it could be the caliper or the brake hose, jack the car up and have some one apply the brakes and try to turn the wheel the instant the brake peddle is released both wheels should start turning the instant the peddle is released....hope this helps

You need to first isolate the breaking problem between the front and the rear . Here's how to do it: While driving about 30mph on a straight road , put the transmission into neutral . Then , while holding the emergency brake lever in the release position , gently apply pressure to the emergency brake . Do you feel the vibration ? If yes , then you probably have out of round drums or desks on the rear axles . If you don't feel any vibration while using the emergency brake , then your problem is the front rotors . They are probably not true . Or they could have hot spots which are little bumps on the rotor surface. Have them turned on a brake lathe to correct the problem . I'm assuming you don't have a bent rim or bad wheel bearings . I hope you have already checked these things before posting your question . If not , do that first .

a steering wheel shake with the wheel fully turned usually indicates a seizing constant velocity joint (axle). it can also be accompanied by a clicking noise while turning at higher speed. this is easy to confirm. raise and support the front of the vehicle and put in neutral. turn the wheels by hand with steering wheel pointed straight ahead. there should be minimal resistance. then try rotating the wheels with the steering wheel turned all the way to one side then the other. if you feel any extra tightness or binding, you indeed have a seizing joint. if the axles look ok visibly, you will need to remove the axles to confirm which side is the problem. good luck!

First the obvious, I can't tell by sound descriptions. But it is helpful nonetheless. Have you visually inspected wheels? Removed wheel and looked at brake pads? Calipers sticking? Have they ever been rebuilt? System purged of old brake fluid? Are blazers front wheel drive? or even 4 wd? then front drive system is causing noise when steering. Not front driven? Then I don't have a clue.

check that your brake cylinder is not sticking after driving feel your wheel nuts if hot that could be your problem

hey charlie, 1st problem is 4 wheel drive being engaged on dry pavement. You should only have it in 4x4 in snow, or off road on sand, dirt,etc. Newer all wheel drive vehicles compensate for the tires rotating at different speeds, like going around a sharp corner. The wheels on the outside of the turn have a longer distance to travel than the wheels on the inside of the turn. This results in the vehicle feeling like it's jumping, hopping or jerking as you cut a tight turn. You can damage your 4x4 system, as the wheels are fighting each other, trying to turn the same # of rotations, and something can and will give (like blowing the transfer case). If your light is staying on after changing to 2 wd, it is possibly stuck in 4x4. To shift from 4wheel to 2 or 2wheel to 4, you should be traveling in a straight line, let off the gas, change in or out of 4x4, resume driving. 4x4 low range requires a complete stop to engage.