Idler arm LF,idler bracket LF,pitman arm LF,tie rod sleeve LF, inner tie rod LF, tie rod end LF, need to repair

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

After replacing any of the components you mentioned, you need an alignment done!

Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install. The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end. The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm. Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

You could have a bad tie rod end, Idler arm, pitman arm, wheel bearing or ball joint. All of these will normally cause a vibration also. Check by jacking the front end one side at a time and moving the tire back and forth on front and back and in and out on top and bottom. Either watch or have someone else watch the steering assembly for movement and where it is. If there is no unusual movement, it is more than likely an alignment problem or tire problem.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

The inner holes, the inner tierod ends go into the outer holes.

Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.