I have 04 Quest w/ 135K miles on it. I've replaced both front rotors w/ EBC (has dimples like golf balls) and slotted. Installed OE brake pads. Everything was done 3 mo ago. Here it is again, when I step on the pedal, pedal becomes "simmy" (same condition when you have warped disks). So, I took both rotors to get them turned last week. Guy said there was "No warp". As I reinstalled them, it is not simmy at this time, but I can feel it. "It's coming back!" What else could go wrong? What else should I check? Bearings? Shocks? Let me know if you have any suggestions.
SOURCE: Brakes Squeak and grind - mostly when cold
This is a head scratcher! My first thought is the rotors. They have an oil film that needs to be degreased before being installed. That may be only part of the prob! My guess is that you hit open road in a short time?? The grinding, jack each wheel and rotate by hand, have your helper gently apply the brakes,[just slightly], this should lead you to the prob. Also check for movement in the wheel bearings. Check that the dust shields are clearing the rotor. If all this fails, remove the wheels and check the inside of the rims for any wear marks. This may be ever so slight. This is the best I can come up with at this time! Frankster016
SOURCE: 2001 brake pad replacement 2001 nissan quest
The hard part is pressing the caliper piston abck into the caliper so you can get the new, thicker pads over the rotor. A large C Clamp works best.
SECTION 206-03: Front Disc Brake
2001 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Pads —Front Disc Brake
Removal
Installation
Caution. The outer pads are left and right. put left on driver side.
NOTE: It is necessary to fully retract the front disc brake caliper piston in the bore before installing the front disc brake pads.
Install the front disc brake pads.
SOURCE: Rear brakes seemm to be sticking on rear of my
Take your rear calipers off and lubricate the pistons with bearing grease,move them up and down with your fingers till they move more freely,then remove the dirt from the a.b.s sensor if any with w.d 40. Then check to see if your emergency brake is adjusted to free up wheel movement,but not to loose.
SOURCE: I need step by step info to replace my front brakes for a 04 xter
DRAIN SOME BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER USING A LARGE SYRINGE THAT BAKERY USE.DONT REMOVE TOO MUCH ABOUT 2/3 THIRDS.THIS ALLOW ROOM FOR FLUID WHEN YOU COMPRESS CALIPER PISTON.AFTER REMOVING SOME BRAKE FLUID.SAFELY RAISE AND SUPPORT VECHICLE USING JACK STANDS.REMOVE FRONT WHEELS OR TIRES.THEN REMOVE THE TOP BOLT FROM CALIPER.AND SWING THE CALIPER OPEN AND REMOVE THE PADS.COMPRESS THE BRAKE CALIPER PISTON USING A LARGE C CLAMP.USE A PIECE OF WOOD 4 INCHES LONG AND WIDE.PLACE IT AGAINST THE PISTON AS YOU TIGHTEN THE C CLAMP TO COMPRESS PISTON BACK IN BORE.BECAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE PISTON AND SEAL. WHEN DONE.INSTALL NEW BRAKE PADS.THEN PUT IN THE TOP BOLT TO BRAKE CALIPER THEN PLACE THE WHEELS OR TIRES BACK ON VECHICLE.LOWER VECHICLE TO THE GROUND MAKE SURE THERE IS BRAKE FLUID IN MASTER CYLINDER. THEN PUT TOP BACK ON MASTER CYLINDER .PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL BRAKES FEEL SOLID. THEN REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER CAP ADD MORE BRAKE FLUID TO CORRECT LEVEL.THEN PLACE CAP BACK ON.YOU ARE BACK IN BUSINESS.MAKE SURE BRAKES FEEL SOLID BEFORE GETTING ON HIGHWAY.
SOURCE: Rotors keep warping. Parking brake=caliper sticking?
well first of all just because they can be turned dosent always mean that you should do it, now a days rotors are alot cheaper to just replace them, however whatch where you buy them. in most cases you get what you paid for, Like cheap rotor prices=less life, same for the pads and how hard the driver uses the pedal. and as for the "classic rotor warp" thats not always the case with these newer cars having more movable joints than ever befor, it could be, bad hub bearing,bad lower ball joint...etc....good luck
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