I have a 97 Grand Cherokee. I left somthing at my house so i headed back. When i came back out, i tried to start it, and the key wouldnt turn. I checked, to see that it was in park. The steering wheel was not locked yet. Turning the steering wheel while trying to turn the key didn't work. We shifted the transfer case into neutral so we could move it, then the steering wheel locked. now we cant get the steering wheel unlocked, or turn the ignition. What do you suggest? A new tumbler?

Of course it is!! You need to demobilize it by pressing unlock on the key after turning the egnition 3/4 of the way on.. then start it. It shouldn't cut out then. But sometimes if your battery is a flat in the keys, which can also leave it imobilized. A kiwi freind of mine bought a 97grand Cherokee a few years back and could start it but it kept on cutting out on him. A beauty maroon 160k on the clock all electrics working he left it sitting in his back yard for years before he found out he had to press unlock in the 3/4 position on the ignition. And by then he'd bought an BMW X5. So I ended up scoring it for free and I also bought a nother of a mate for 1k done 300k but it had good quality things that my freebie didnt, so I built one awsome jeep outa the two.

Check the three main grounds. Battery to engine, battery to body, and engine to body. If you cant find one, add it.

no verb? any 2 cars stated.
Problem with 1985 Honda Prelude 97 jeep grand cherokee head gasket
97 jeep grand cherokee head gasket

Fuel pump. The valve in the pump that stops the fuel from draining back into the tank is not working so you crank and crank until the fuel gets up front. Turn the key on but not to start for 5 seconds then off do it five times and then try to start it should start right up

Try locking and unlocking the drivers door using the key. Usually that will re-set the security system. Also try the rear hatch lock as sometimes that is used instead of driver door.

well the crank sensor would have been my first guess also... I have a family member this week go without his vehicle for 3 days, because it wouldnt start, he was using the same key he always used, but would just turn over, no spark, no fuel. i got to reading the manual, and his has an anti theft system in the ignition switch.. somehow it got activated... he said hes not sure how, he just parked it when he got home, and went out to start it, and nothing, just cranking with no starting. anyhow, the key he was using was one he had made off of the original, so i had him go in the house and get me his original, put it in the switch, and the vehicle started right up, the key was chipped with a code, and it was somehow being read by the ignition switch... his is a 94 so i wouldnt put it past them to put it in a 97.. not saying thats your problem, but i hate to see someone put a bunch of money in a vehicle, thats not necessary, he was going to.... needless to say he was glad it was an easy fix, but very frustrated for the 3 days with no vehicle. hope this helps

Try seeing if a crank sensor went bad.

99% sure it's the Crankshaft position sensor since it will crank over but you have no spark. It's located at about 2'oclock on the bell housing.

Thundergod is correct in saying to check the CPS
(Crank Shaft Postion Senor) and also the fuel pump,
since it contains the fuel pressure regulator also.
This unit could be worn due to milage and may
need replacing, replace the fuel filter with a new
one if you haven't already.

Next, remove the lower portion of the block off
plate attached to the bell housing to check for
coolant leak due to corroded freeze plug. You
may be asking why? Well, because if there is
a leak and the coolant migrates it's way into
the bell housing it could possibly be picked
up by the flex plate or fly wheel and thus
sling coolant in a circular fashion all over the
inside of the bell housing and coating the
(CSP), which is a Hal Effect device.

This would effectively interfere with the
timing of the vehicle and cause stalling
or shutting down intermittently. Lastly
check the screws that bolt the torque
converter to the flex plate, ocassionly
these can back out and slowy grind
away at the block off plate sending
metal shavings everywhere, and you
guessed it covering the (CSP) which
is magnetic! Again timing is
greatly affected, loud backfires,
stalling, etc...I know from experience!

spray all the electrical components with wd40 then try it