Hello Bill Bryglas,
Engaged and by-pass HUBS MAKE no noise...
MANUAL HUBS ...
There is a VAGUE reference to Locking Hub
Conversion KITs... but No DATA ...
(I sincerely believe are "after-market"
(as your MANUAL makes no further reference))...
Ford 1989 Bronco Owner Manual Wrecker Towing
These HUBS are very simple devices
(typically AFTERMARKET) "WARN" being the name
I remember (as BIG-NAME) from my youth
Readily available on eBay...
1989 bronco II front manual hub eBay
(Long long ago... Right after wheels were invented)...
This could be a RASH assumption... but I am thinking
near 30 years after SALE ... I might be worth the EFFORT
simply to remove the screw caps... clean the LOCK interior
and put CLEAN GREASE back into those hubs...
CERTAINLY inspect the parts and make sure no parts
are FRACTURED...
I am thinking OLD GREASE is your only issue...
Love to be WRONG... Comment me back.
Carnac the Magnificent
Try select 4wd and reverse about 50 feet then select normal and drive forward..this sometimes free up the hubs.
SOURCE: 1989 bronco II, 2.9 V6 automatic transmission
My ATSG manual says to tighten the adjusting screw in to 10ft-lbs, then back it out exactly 2 turns. Holding the screw, tighten the lock nut to 35-45ft-lbs. The intermediate band is set the same way.
SOURCE: firing order for 1989 full size ford bronco 302
13726548 #1 cyl is front pass side and count to back 1234 are on pass side.5678 are on driver side.# 5 being front
SOURCE: can I tow a 1985 ford bronco II 4x4 with hubs and
yes if you make sure the front hubs are disengaged(turn little hub releases in middle of the wheel,man trans is ok auto not ok you do need to remove the drive shaft of an auto not man
SOURCE: how do I drop the transmission and transfer case?
Get the truck up, get some cardboard on the floor, unless you have a lift. Get some jack stands under there, get your buddy to help stop this thing from smashing on the floor when you pull it out. Remove the battery cable, remove the drive shaft, get the book, remove the electrics(speedo,etc) to the tranny, remove the shift cover inside, might have to remove starter, remove bolts on bell to engine, remove cross member,(s), that should just about do it, remove clutch slave hose or cylinder, Pull, now , if the flywheel is scorched, crinkled, get it to a machine shop for turning, buy your new clutch and pressure plate, a new pinion bearing if it has one, grease it up a little,make sure you have the right clutch, see if it fits the shaft on the tranny. align the spline in the clutch plate to the pinion, by eye or with a dowel, tighten up the plate, pick up the tranny and slide it in the hole, you shouldn't have to pound, grunt or sweat, if it doesn't go in, you got something wrong, with a little tweaking, it should go right in, put the bolts back in, hook everything back up, I hope this helps.
SOURCE: fuel pump not working
I just had the same problem, today, check the tan- lt green wire on the fuel relay that is located on the right fender, mine wasn't pushed in all the way, this wire shut down spark and fuel
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