Cv joint but the plastic thang that go around it

Boot kits start at $20. if you need the whole drive shift with the joints then around $100 apiece.

What about the CV joints or the splined shaft that goes into the hub ?

cv joints are covered with a plastic/rubber boot to keep the road dirt out and lubricating grease in''the inner works of a cv joint are an alloy metal with honeycomb chambers for the joint bearings to fit inside of..do this.. take your left hand and make a fist..then fit the fist into the spread open fingers of the right hand ..rotate both hands together back and forth..your ncv axle turns in much the same way..when dirt gets into the joint due to cover failure..this joint wears out because it has engine torque(twisting) pressure on it while moving..along with grit and dirt grinding away at both the metal and the bearings inside causing lots of slop in the joint..now if the engine torque becomes too strong for the worn out chambers in the joint, they will break..remember they arent steel,,they are alloy..thus rendering the joint unuseable ( slip your left hand inside the right between the fingers to grt the idea.. thats what the cv joint on your car is doing...so replacement is necessary..its not an easy job since most cars front suspension is opened up during this proceedure,,,car is ten years old do you feel that its worth the money? call for rates first...good luck and repost findings thnx

Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

this is the sign of a failing outer CV joint in the drive shaft. look under car at driveshaft. the rubber boot around CV joint is probably torn. This allows lube to fling out and water to come in, contaminating the CV joint. Replace the entire drive shaft instead of replacing only the outer CV joint.

Probably cv joint they will start that way when on the straight away you wont hear it but on the turn you will means that the bearings in the cv joint are bad check this out and let me know also please rate my assistance if it was helpful thank you.

'Clunky' noises around the front wheels especially when turning indicates worn Universal 'CV' joints: this can sometimes be minimized by greasing the CV joints. This is a common condition if the CV joints rubber covers or 'boots' are split: if you don't need to replace the CV joints yet, you will need to replace the damaged boots with what are called 'split' boots.

Hope it helps: let me know how you go!

well now,,,il tell you a storie,,,better sit down?
the cv joints are the joints in a drive train that for use of a better word "bend the drive shaft" so it dont brake when you turn a corner,,,ie:parking! inside the cv joint is held on the drive shaft be some splines in the drive shaft and a spring clip holds it all together there is an "inner bell" it has normaly 5 slots in it that have big "ball bearings" in them that slid around up and down these slots on the out side of the cv joint is the outer "bell" this also has slots that the ball bearings fit into so the drive trough the cv is compleat,,,when you turn the wheels the cv joints slids round on these ball bearings twisting round but the drive from the engine is still transmited to the road wheeles trough the cv
when this cv joint starts to were out the ball bearings are pitted and not ball shaped any more and the slots they run in are not smooth that to gets pitted what happens is the cv starts to "crack" under load,,,and vibrate when turning or being driven you drive down the road at 50 mph and the car feels like its driving over stones in the road its vidrating off the cv joint then when you turn the wheel on full lock to pull away you here a very big cracking or clicking sound, like,,,,,click click click, and the more power you put on the more they click very soon people start turning around and look at you? oh yes they here it to!
the vibration that comes off the cv will reck the transmission becouse of the wipping of the drive shafts,,,, to test your cv joints to see if there good or bad one's put the car on full lock and pull away,, if there is a cracking sound or a klicking sound there shot away and you need new ones fitted
now then,,,storie over,,, its time for sleepy sleeps

If you have a decent mechanical background than you should be able to do this yourself. If you dont you should leave it to pros

inner cv joints are the joints on the inner half of the axle shaftswhere they go into the transmission. sometimes the easiest thing to do is replace the axle shafts