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Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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2002 Saturn VUE. Just had catalytic converter and 02 sensor replaced 10/4. Now car does not want to go when in drive,will only move in low. Worse after stopping for light. This does not happen all the time occasionally. Was told it was a transmisson problem and no one wants to touch it since it is a complicated engine. Is there anything else that it could be.

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Jonah Oneal

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  • Saturn Master 14,092 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 06, 2010
Jonah Oneal
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Joined: Mar 17, 2009
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FIRST CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL.IF FLUID LOOKS BURNT AND SMELL.CHANGE FLUID TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER.IF ALL IS GOOD. SOUND TRANSMISSION FORWARD CLUTCH PLATES PISTONS SEALS WORN.BUT HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED FOR FAULTY TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH CODE.

  • 2 more comments 
  • georgiarose8 Oct 07, 2010

    Does anyone know anybody who who wanna buy a 2002 Saturn VUE with these problems??

  • Jonah Oneal Oct 07, 2010

    CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL ON DIP STICK. FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE ON FULL MARK. TRANSMISSION DIP STICK LOCATED NEXT TO THE IGNITION COIL. AND TRY FLUID AND FILTER CHANGE FIRST.SEE IF HELPS IF NOT TRANSMISSION WORN OUT.

  • georgiarose8 Oct 08, 2010

    Could it be the transxale sensor? How hard are these to replace and how much does it usually cost???

  • Jonah Oneal Oct 08, 2010

    COULD BE TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SOLENOID OR THE 1 - 2 SHIFT SOLENOID. YOU HAVE TO GET VECHICLE SCANNED SHIFT SOLENOIDS CAN COST AT LEAST 80.00 OR LITTLE MORE. GETTING VECHICLE SCANNED ABOUT $100.00.DEALERSHIP HAS TO HOOK A SPECIAL SCANNER TO TRANSMISSION THAT CAN DIAGNOSIS ALL SHIFT CONTROLS SOLENOIDS CIRCUITS.

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2005 Saturn Vue 3.5. Where would my Bank 1 Sensor 2 located

Question edited for clarity.
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As a general rule, with a laterally positioned V6 , Bank 1 is always closest to the firewall Bank 2 is closest to the headlights.

Sensor 1 is ALWAYS the one in the Exhaust Manifold, and Sensor 2 is ALWAYS the one AFTER the Catalytic converter.

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When I need to replace one, I soak the threads with Liquid Wrench the day before, and I take the car for a drive to heat up the Liquid Wrench (your regular commute or an errand run will do the trick). When I return, I add some more Liquid Wrench. The old sensor generally comes out without a lot of trouble with this treatment. The hardest part may be getting a wrench (metric) on it with enough space to turn. Before you remove the sensor, study the connector to see how the plastic latch unlocks. If you use an after-market replacement designed to splice into the original wire, be sure to use a crimp-type splice rated for high temperature environments. "Twist and tape" is not reliable enough for this task.
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