This is a 1997 Geo Metro with 1.3L engine. It starts and runs at fast idle but will not increase RPM's unless you hold the pedal to the floor and then it slooowly increases RPM's (like 30-40 sec.). It will rev up and down then unless you let it go all the way back down to an idle, then you have to start it all over again. Whats up?

1)Throttle body butterfly stuck or gummed up.
2) Idle control valve gummed up or electrically inop..
Spray cleaners will solve the problem unless it's electrical .

old post.
too fast hot or cold.,
this car has a ECU, brain,
the brain controls RPM full time hot,
not you unless you step on the throttle.
only IT does. the ECU.
if the idle is wrong when cold engine, that is the IAC failing.
or is normal, I dont know you never stated
hot
cold
or and RPM

1995 Geo Metro. COLD start or HOT started or BOTH?
Does it ever idle down to 800 HOT? (engine temp)>?

Aka:
Geo Metro (later re-branded the Chevrolet Metro), Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Swift
which engine, what country??? I will post for USA only !!!!
Auto or stick tranny???
the USA 1995 was the last car to use TBI injection (throttle body)
the LSI option, then had a 4 cylinder. in 1.3Liters.
and works totally differ. than any 1.0L
answsering for 1.0L

Have you inserted the Diagnostic jumper wire and looked at the
FLASH codes yet?
choke? on 95? what country is this, ours are not carbs. in 1995.
so post country. ours are all EFI in USA.
3 cylinder? 1 liter? or which engine/?
on any USA Metro, 1L , when first started, it has 2 valves. to control IDLE, (cold , is iAC) hot is ISC, The cold start valve opens farther the colder it is (how cold was it). but usually is limited to about 2000 rpm
max.
this engine, TBI, uses a MAP to control fuel mixtures, and
any air leaks (aka; vacuum leaks) what so ever, will cause too fast idle.
so on MAP cars, you get to find out what is leaking AIR.
1995 has the new better , idle control speed motor, (ISC)
this can be stuck open.
that new TPS, did you do the calibration correctly?
it must set right. or idle will never be controlled.
finding the cause, takes hard work, and hands on testing
A/C fast idle broken
A/T transmission fast idle, device, broken.
Air leaks (add huge list of possibles and cracked hoses here)
Throttle stuck
ISC or IAC bad.
very hands on to find this, done many.
TPS on indexed corrrectly or not calibrated.

Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Clean the air valve on throttle body. Or idle control motor. Or may be connected vacuum hoses wrong.

Sounds like it cant breath, Is the cat converter clogged? or do you have a huge vacuum leak?

wont kick n passing gear

I would start by hooking up a vacume gage, if it reads low check for cracked or broken lines.

Try this
Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

it may have jump time