I just changed the head gaskets in my 93 probe gt. After putting everything back togeather it wouldn't fire. After playing with the dist it fired for about 5 sec. then it almost seemed like it ran out of gas, Fuel cut off light was on, no noise from fuel pump, after rewiring cut off (by passing) fuel pump will turn on at ignition. Car still will turn over but won't start. After doing a compression test 2was@ 150 4@ 125 6@ 150 and 1 3 and 5 were at 0 is this just a timing prob. does this sound like I'm just out a tooth. Thanks for your time Danny
so should I pull the heads back off and re tighten. the head bolts on the probe are re-usable right. thats what i was told at Lordco.so should I pull the heads back off and re tighten. the head bolts on the probe are re-usable right. thats what i was told at Lordco.
Yup I replaced all the gaskets with new ones.I have the valve covers removed and have the cam sprocket dots in line with the (slots) at 330 deg. as indacated in the haynes manual. The cam markers are in line along the top of the head. the crank gear is in line with the "T" on the timing cover. The distributer is also at cylinder 1 which makes me believe that the timing is right. I've also had other's look at it and to them they timing also seems to be right but none of them have worked on a Mazda 2.5L. There is no compression on the rear head cylinders.
Thanks for your time (no pun intended)
DannyYup I replaced all the gaskets with new ones.I have the valve covers removed and have the cam sprocket dots in line with the (slots) at 330 deg. as indacated in the haynes manual. The cam markers are in line along the top of the head. the crank gear is in line with the "T" on the timing cover. The distributer is also at cylinder 1 which makes me believe that the timing is right. I've also had other's look at it and to them they timing also seems to be right but none of them have worked on a Mazda 2.5L. There is no compression on the rear head cylinders.
Thanks for your time (no pun intended)
Danny
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Turn the engine over and bring #1 piston to the top of the cylinder then remove the dist. cap and be sure the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire in the firing order. Turn the oil pump shaft with a screwdriver so you can keep the rotor pointing to #1 in the firing order set the dist. You have to pay close attention when you set the dist to the oil pump shaft or you can get it a half tooth off and car will backfire when you start it. Good luck
Hello difelice5: My name is Roger and I will help with your answer. The correct fire order is 1-2-3-4-5-and 6. I also attached a picture of cylinder reference and the correct fire order in the cap. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer as this way I know it was helpful. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
crank shaft sensor? I've had these be bad in a couple of vehicles, and I spent weeks/months worrying about the possible cause. Just a possible thought.
Since it's turning over and you smell gas you probably have a spark proble. Check spark at plugwires and work back to the coil by disconnecting the smaller 3 prong connector at the distributor. Check for 520-580 ohms between the 2 outer prongs on the dist. side. If that is good pull the cap and inspect. Check resistance from the inner of the 3 prongs and the coil by probing the hole where the cap penetrates the high tension lead. No resistance = Bad coil. Replace dist. NEXT Remove dist. marking the rotor position and the housing position in order to replace it the same spot. Tun th rotor and you should hear 6 clicks per rotation. this is the injectores taking spark. If none then CK1 (or camshaft sensor) is likely bad. refer to manual for in depth and double checking the routine. A Disty is aroung $200-250 or 1,000 at dealer. Even after all these checks there is no guarantee as the probe is known to have some really tough spark issues. Particularly the 93. This info is for 93 2.5L 6cyl., but translates well for most any car. ICM (ignition control module) cannot be tested unless your parts house has a tester. Th eprobes have internal icm and coil (in the dist.). Remember. You can jumper from gnd and 10 pin too pull codes. All this can be found in a 15$ Haynes manual which pays for itself the first time you have issues. Feel Free t oe-mail me - I have gone Waayyay past this with my 93. [email protected]
not sure the car is at the shop. Why
so should I pull the heads back off and re tighten. the head bolts on the probe are re-usable right. thats what i was told at Lordco.
Yup I replaced all the gaskets with new ones.I have the valve covers removed and have the cam sprocket dots in line with the (slots) at 330 deg. as indacated in the haynes manual. The cam markers are in line along the top of the head. the crank gear is in line with the "T" on the timing cover. The distributer is also at cylinder 1 which makes me believe that the timing is right. I've also had other's look at it and to them they timing also seems to be right but none of them have worked on a Mazda 2.5L. There is no compression on the rear head cylinders.
Thanks for your time (no pun intended)
Danny
What was the reason for replacing the timing belt in the first place?
I had to change the head gasket
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