When clutch depressed starter motor dosen't work

1. So the car was running normally and then on one occasion you put in the key to start it and all the warning lights flash up on the dash and the starter motor will not turn the engine over. Is that correct.

2. When you last drove the car were any warning lights appearing on the dash.such as check engine warning, engine overheating, electrical charging warnings etc.\

3. Has any work been carried out on the car recently.

4. How old is the battery in the car.

the alternator or the voltage regulator is at fault
have an accredited auto electrician do a charhe circuit test

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

It's called the clutch start switch. Yes, it could be bad or needs adjustment.

Push the clutch in and the switch closes contact, so power flows from the ignition switch start position to the clutch switch and on to the starter motor-well, actually to the starter solenoid on the starter motor. If you have a voltmeter or test light, you can test the clutch switch . A red and white wire to it and a red wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. When this wire gets to the solenoid, it is a black wire with red stripe. It should have voltage when key is held in start position and the clutch pedal is depressed.

If the starter will not crank the engine, then yes, it is possible that it may have to do with the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch. Then again, maybe not. I t also could be a problem with the security system not recognizing your key, or it could be even more simple like a loose battery cable connection. Without proper diagnosis, I would not even rule out a bad starter motor or starter motor relay.

The place to BEGIN diagnosis on this problem would be to scan your onboard computer network for possible fault codes and verify Powertrain Control Module (PCM) inputs from both the ignition switch and the CPP switch. Also check for battery voltage at the "S" terminal (small wire) on the starter to see if the signal from the starter relay is getting to the starter (with the clutch pedal depressed).

Check starter relays. Should be under the hood on the d/s fender well. You will need a helper. if its not working and you don't know how to check the wiring to it get back to me

You know about the contraction and exspansion law. It's probably the slave cylinder. It does get fairly hot when you work your transmission hard. This would cause blow by past the orings in the slave. you can only get what the manufacturer made for the vehicle. What happened to the old linkage systems that you could adjust?
Randy

If the battery is fine, why jump it? Faulty thinking to state or think: all electrical in the car work fine. If it did the starter motor would be turning the engine over. The starter motor work on electrical...not all is fine.

check: 1) 60a starter fuse/relay. 2) voltage to starter when turning key to activate starter motor, this will rule out ignition switch or relay. 3) apply direct voltage to starter motor to detect bad starter motor.

if the battery is OK, but the starter still won't crank, there could be a number of possible reasons. Here are some of them:
- The ignition switch could be at fault - it's a common problem.
- The starter motor itself is common to fail.
- Starter motor control wire could have bad connection.
- Cars with an automatic transmission have a Neutral Safety Switch that allows the starter to be operated only when the transmission is in "Park" or "Neutral" position. When this switch isn't functioning properly, or for example, when the shifter is not fully engaged in "Park" or "Neutral" position, the starter also won't crank.
- Similarly, cars with manual transmission have a switch installed at the clutch pedal that only allow the car to be started when the clutch pedal is depressed. The problem with this clutch pedal switch could also prevent the starter from operating
- A problem with vehicle's security system or some other electronic control module (e.g, PCM, BCM) may also prevent the starter from operating.

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the clutch interlock switch mounted under the clutch pedal. A combination of the clutch pedal and switch mount being there for 15 years and had bent just a little not allowing the switch to be fully depressed and my floormats getting behind the clutch pedal not allowing the pedal to push the switch all the way. You can press the switch by hand and turn the key (making sure the truck is in neutral of course). If it starts reliably every time you found the problem. I adjusted the switch out by disconnecting the wire to the switch and loosening the 14mm nut behind the switch and turning the switch out a couple of turns. When moved out a bit and keeping the floormat from behind the clutch pedal, voila, starts every time. This fix came after a new battery, new starter, new battery cables and still the intermittent no crank was present. Start with the cheap/free stuff first and move on from there if needed :-)