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When starting, engine speed in revs/per minute (tachometer reading) goes very high 4000-4500, and immediately after that stops. The effect is repetitive. However, after pressing a gas pedal repeatedly 2-3 times per second it is possible to maintain the engine speed in the interval of 2000-3000 rpm. For some reason (carburation/emission control problem), engine does not have idling speed (800-1000 rpm), and its is possible to drive the car (Honda Accord, 1982, California model) only by pressing repetitively the gas pedal. I appreciate any explanation and possible SOLUTION of this problem. Many Thanks! Mart (Estonia)
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It's possible that the 2004 Ford Ranger's engine or the tachometer itself is to blame for the difficulty you're describing with the tachometer reading. A crankshaft position sensor issue is one typical reason for a tachometer to read high. To determine the engine's RPM, this sensor transmits signals to the engine control module (ECM). The tachometer may show a reading higher than the real RPM if the sensor is broken.
There are several possible causes for this issue, including a problem with the tachometer itself, a problem with the sensor that sends information to the tachometer, or a problem with the vehicle's electrical system. It is also possible that the tachometer cable is loose, damaged, or disconnected.
It's recommendable to take your truck to a professional mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem. In some cases, the problem might be fixable by replacing the sensor or cable, but in other cases, it may require more extensive repairs or replacement of the tachometer itself.
It's also important to note that even though the tachometer is not working properly, it does not affect the performance of the engine, but it will give you a wrong idea of the RPM, which could lead you to over-rev the engine and cause damage.
revolutions per minute and is read from the turbine shaft in the transmission
it reports the input drive shaft speed to the TCM so that the TR knows to change ratios
the engine rpms engine revolutions per minute are recorded on the tachometer in the dash so don;t confuse the two different readings
take it to an accredited auto transmission shop to have the sensor replaced
Macsry2k answer makes the the most trouble shooting sense. Problem is definitely electric. Since the alternator is where the RPM reading comes from, this is the best place to start. Good luck!
First thing check for engine control module fault codes, if you have a lean running code then you have a vacuum leak on the engine, this allows air to bypass the idle speed control system and raises the idle up. Another issue is a sticking Idle speed control air bypass valve, but that is not common and vacuum leaks are.
I take it that you only have 1 speedometer and that reads miles per hour or car speed . The left speedo? is in reality a tachometer and reads the engine revolutions per minute. When the engine is cold (before it reaches operating temperature) the CPU will keep the rpm's above 1000 (1 x1000) and when that temperature is reached the idle speed is reduced to normal operating rpm's. So yes it is normal. All you need to do is know the difference and the meaning of all the gauges.
Fords do rev high when first started but a breather filter may be dirty,the ticking is probably the valves that haven't gotten oil pressure to them.If it has high miles you may want to use a full synthetic with your next oil change so the valves will be safer from start up wear.I personally use Slik 50 and Quaker State Synthetic Blend...
1. Set parking brake. Shift automatic transmission to Park or manual transmission to Neutral. With A/C off, start engine and attain normal operating temperature.
2. With ignition OFF, connect an ignition timing light and a calibrated, expanded-scale tachometer.
3. Disconnect 4 " and 10 " Hg (CEC System) vacuum switch assembly wire connector (located at top of valve cover). Disconnect and plug distributor vacuum advance hose.
4. Start engine, increase engine speed to 1600 RPM and check ignition timing. Adjust timing to specification listed on Emission Control Information label (if necessary). Tighten distributor hold-down clamp and recheck ignition timing.
5. Turn engine off and remove timing light and tachometer. Connect No. 1 spark plug lead, if disconnected. Unplug and connect distributor vacuum advance hose. Connect vacuum switch assembly wire connector.
NOTE: If timing light has an adjustable advance control feature, turn control to OFF position.
check for air leaks on the emission system, if fine, check for the throthle posittioner disconect it, if idles good, replaceit, next go to the idle motor, is next to the throthle body, remove it and clean it with a good carburator cleaner, install it and start the car.
good luck.
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