1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab Logo

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Posted on Mar 08, 2010
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Missing, have changed oil, plugs,wires,distributor cap,coil.

Missing

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  • Expert 332 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2010
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Replace your spark plugs and distributor cap, check that all spark plug wires are firmly seated on the plugs

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0helpful
3answers

Every time it starts raining truck starts missing and cutting out it's a 97 f 150 ford 4.6 motor.

Possibly a plug wire or cracked distributor cap. I'd take a spray bottle and while it's running (be careful not to get your body parts in danger of the fan) spray some water on the cap area. If everything seems fine, you could spray down each plug wire at a time. See if you find the culprit that way. For a vehicle so old, if you haven't done a tune up lately. It's probably a good time. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. Plugs and wires.
0helpful
1answer

I have a 1994 Ford van 5.8 eng I replace wires plugs TPS distributor cap pick up coil fuel filter eng coil it is still sputtering and jerking at times when you drive it and it is missing sometimes when it...

is your distributor still using contact point? if yes, have it cleaned or replaced. also, replace the condenser attached in the distributor.

have you replaced also the distributor rotor?

remove your plugs and see if at least one contains oil.
3helpful
1answer

Has a miss and oil leak suddenly. About half a quart just by moving it.

ENGINE MISSING CAN BE WEAK COIL.BAD PLUGS AND WIRES.REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR.FUEL FILTER STOPPED UP ALSO FUEL INJECTORS CLOGGED UP CAUSES MISSING.CHECK UNDERNEATH CAR WHILE IDLING.IF YOU LOSING A LOT OF OIL.FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL OR REAR MAIN SEAL LEAKING OIL.LEAKING VALVE COVERS.DO A COMPRESSION TEST.AND CHECK CONDITIONS OF SPARK PLUGS.IF PLUGS SOAKED IN OIL.VALVE GUIDES + SEAL LEAKING OIL IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER.
0helpful
1answer

Reading number 3 cyl miss fire

Make sure the plug wires are correctly placed on the distributor cap (coil pack). In most cases, (when these are changed) two are accidentally switched.

Simply take two at a time and switch them. (refer to a repair maunal for firing order first). You can look this up online as well at http://www.google.com.

If these are correctly placed, then pull the wires (one at a time) from the plugs, and pull the plugs out and check for oil on the plug. If any one of these has oil, then you may have found your miss fire.

If all there is good (clean these and run truck); pull the distrubutor cap off (if equipped) and make sure the rotor (just under cap in center) is not cracked or warn (check end where small metal end is located). This sparks at each plug point on the distrubutor cap.

That is the next thing to check. On the inside of the cap. look to see that the prongs are not white, grooved, or broken. If any of these are true, replace both cap and rotor. Some rotors pull off, others have a small screw that hold them in palce which is located on the side.

If you're truck has coil pack(s) then have them all (if more than one) tested. These sit on a unit called a modular. Look at the modular after removing the packs and see that it is not bubbling, white, or melted. If any of these are true, it needs replaced as these cannot be tested.

Contact your local automotive parts store for correct parts and pricing. NOTE: some parts (seldom) may need to be purchased from dealer. This is rare, but sometimes an only option.

Also, if you have a distributor, check to make sure the coil wire (center of cap) is pushed on completely on the cap as well as the coil. (coil may need replaced as well) which also cannot be tested.

If need be, and you have not already, replace all of the following to ensure all is good:

plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, (the coil wire will come with the plug wires, but make sure when purchasing).

If coil packs are present instead of distributor, replace the following:

plugs, plug wires, any coil packs that are tested back, modular if it looks anything like that described above. Also remember to check for oil residue, or blackened powder on the spark plug ends.

If any, replace as necessary. When you replace spark plugs and wires do the following to ensure the firing order remains:

Pull one plug at a time. Take plug wire off the plug only, until new plug is inserted; then replace the appropriate length plug wire. (compare old to new; some may be close in length, but not exact as these are aftermarket plug wires).

Do this for each plug and wire. Save the coil wire for last to know you are finished with all: coil wire is the shortest of all (usually) and only goes on once way at each end: typically. One end will be straight - this goes to the coil. (not coil pack) the other end will be a 90 degree; this goes on the center port on the distributor.

If coil packs are present, there will not be a coil wire, as the coil packs replaced this unit.

My apologies for the lengthy reply, however this is to ensure you save time, money, and are aware of the different options and possibilities.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com
2helpful
1answer

My 1990 sierra has a miss in it when i accelarate. I replaced plugs and wires but not the fuel filter or fuel pump.I also smell fuel outside between the bed and cab on the drivers side

Check out the distributor cap and rotor arm, - and make sure the plugs ar gapped properly - should be 1mm on 1.6 1.8, and 0.75mm on the 2 liter.
Check the oil level urgently, if it has been misfiring for some time you will have acuumulated all that unburnt petrol in the oil sump!!! (you can test this by getting a bit of oil from the dipstick and putting a drop on your fingers, rub together and sniff the oil, if it stinks of petrol change it -you need to change the oil filter too since it wil be full of petrol tainted oil also.
Once you are sure you have good oil and either it was ok after testing it from the distick "golden, clean oil" or you replaced the contaminated oil and filter you can move on to sorting out this misfire.
- You didn't mention if you checked or replaced the HT coil - Check for strong sparking from the main HT lead from the coil itslelf, Pull the lead from the centre of the distibutor cap - have someone crank the engine while there is a "spare" sparkplug in the main ht lead (ground the plug to the engine, holding the rubber insulation of the cable with pliers - Use a normal HT lead if the main coil lead wont reach a suitable grounding point with the sparkplug) - check for solid bright blue spark, it should be regular timed, and strong EVERY time - any missing or weak sparks indicate electrical problem either - the coil is failing - or the battery is weak - or the distributor is faulty. - a faulty distributor would be expensive to replace and more so to repair, a reconditioned distributor costs around £120.
for now I assume the coil checked out fine and gave a strong steady uniform set of sparks. ----------------------- With a fully functioning coil, you're left with the distributor cap and rotor arm - the distributor cap comes off with 2 screws at the left and right sides of the cap between the HT Connectors - unscrew them - (note the original orientation of the distributor cap before you pull it off to aid refitting) you can now pull away the cap from the rest of the distributor.
INSIDE the CAP there are four "poles" round the outside, and a spring mounted contact in the center - make sure the poles are clean and shiny with only light markings at most, if they are blackened, whitened ro rounded and pitted then replace the cap - ford dealers or local part shop, most shops will stock both the rotor arm and distributor cap for around £15-30 - phone around for the best deal.
Still on the distributor is the rotor arm, this pulls off - it has to be pulled dead straight off the distributor shaft - once you have the rotor arm off you can inspect the metal contact on the top for general dirtiness and decay, it "should" be shiny brass/copper in colour. if it looks pretty bad, pitted or blackened/burned- - get a new rotor arm from ford dealers or from local part shop (not expensive)
Once you are sure of a clean or new rotor arm and distributor cap you can try the engine again - hopefully the misfire is gone.
If it is still there....
we are here

DISTRIBUTOR CAP - FINE ROTOR ARM - FINE OIL + FILTER NOT OVER LEVEL + CLEAN, NO PETROL IN IT HT COIL - GOOD STRONG REGULAR SPARK. -----

If it still misfires with all these things in perfect order then you are left with: Clogged Fuel Line/Filter or Failing Fuel Pump or Ignition TIMING - ( 10-12 degrees BTDC) have igition timing checked and set if not correct. OR... Faulty Distributor - pretty much worst case scenario. Tell me how you get on - Often it is the distributor cap and rotor arm - If not I hope its the fuel filter!
Good luck,
0helpful
1answer

Missing on my 1991 Honda Accord

check whit a spark tester if the distributor give enougth voltage , if to low the coil in the distributor are bad
0helpful
2answers

I have a miss fire

Recheck the firing order; 1-6-5-4-3-2

On the distributor passenger side radiator to fire wall. 2-4-6-coil
On the distributor drivers side radiator to fire wall. 3-1-5

Cylinder passenger side radiator to fire wall. 2-4-6
Cylinder drivers side radiator to fire wall. 1-3-5

Good luck and also check the distributor cap again for proper seating.
2helpful
3answers

Replaced spark plugs and wires truck is missing

i would suggest calling the police at this point .
0helpful
1answer

My 84 Cortina bakkie 3.0 V6 has a terrible missfire.. I changed plugwires, the rotor looks fine, can it be the coil? In the morning when I start the van, it does not take, however, if i run a wire from the...

Your ignition circuit is faulty- it's probably the ignition switch itself that is defective. The misfire is that the distributor cap has a crack in it and the spark is directed to a particular plug wire and the spark has found its way to a non designated plug wire. It wouldn't be the coil, change the rotor and distributor cap be sure to mark your plug wires and reinsert into the proper hole in the distributor cap. Good Luck, Jim
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