The main relay is bad. This is located on the driver side above the fuse panel. What happens is the temerature warms up and the soldier seperates. You can either replace this or re-soldier it. The part number is RZ-0088, you can get a new one on ebay. You will need a 10mm socket to get it out, it is behind the cruise control module.
New ignition switch is your #1 problem, Main relay testing: leave a car in the sun so it is really hot inside, then try to start it, if you have a difficult start or no start then open your windows and let it cool for about 10-20 min, if it starts then replace your main relay.
Check your main relay
Check your ignition switch, replace if necessary.
Sometime old ignition switch open the circuit due to poor contact surface then main voltage from battery can't pass through all electronics component.
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I have not had my fuel pressure checked. No I have not had that kind of a problem. It seems like it happens more when its hot outside. Thank you for your input.
Would this process apply if the car is a stick shift?
I should not have said "automatic transmission." Must have been a bit tired. I should have said "programmed fuel injection," which is what the PGM-FI stands for on the throttle housing. I would also still have the fuel pressure checked, and, as suggested by Erakii, your main relay, because it contains the relays for your electronic unit power supply and your fuel pump power supply (it is, I believe, under or behind the left end of the dashboard).
It would appear that you've done everything electrically, and if you are sure that you are getting fuel regularly, you will have to turn to mixture (air/fuel) as the remaining element. Some of the following, if it makes sense to you, might help: If you have an automatic transmission, I would check 1) the fast idle thermo-valve. 2) the starting air valve, and 3) the IAC valve. The IAC valve and the Fast Idle valve are on the front of the cover that has PGM-FI on the top. They are connected at the bottoms by small water hoses. The starting air valve is at the right hand end (facing the car) of that cover (but since you are having the problem when the car is warmed up, it's probably not the starting air valve). All of these valves affect your starting air mixture, in one way or another. They get dirty, or the vacuum hose to the starting valve might start leaking. You will probably should have a manual (Haynes) to go through checking procedures. It has good pics and describes what to do, but many owners simply take the two bolts out of the IAC valve and those that hold the Fast Idle Valve, pull them back without disconnecting the water hoses, and spray the insides of them (especially the screen in one of the two IAC holes) with a good dose of carb cleaner, reassemble and see if that makes things better. The vacuum hose on the starting valve should be carefully checked. . Your problem could be your PVC valve, but probably not. (your PVC valve is plugged into the valve cover (the black hose in between the IAC and the Fast Idle valve) it simply pulls out. It should rattle when shaken.) Maybe something here will help you.
Have you had you fuel pressure checked? Honda electric fuel pumps (your pump is in your gas tank) are famous for working, then not, then working, then not, until they finally fail all together and your car won't run at all. Have you had this problem especially when the engine is under stress, like going up a significant incline?
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