I am working on 95 ford truck f 700 no spark from coil so changed the coil still nothing and 11 volts going in have any ideas?

Question edited for clarity and change 'want start' to 'won't start'.
Question moved to model category.

Does it have the original battery, and does the battery have at least 12.3 volts?

https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+Ford+Escort+MK5+1.4+won%27t+start

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First check points for corrosion and replace condenser if it has been sitting a while. Test for voltage at the coil small lead coming from the ignition switch. If you have done this all, the coil may be bad, and while you can test it with an ohm meter, this test is not perfect so you may want to either replace it or substitute a known good unit. CAUTION! six volt coils are different from 12 volt coils AND there are two different types of 12 volt coils--internal and external resistor coils. Most folks convert these old tractors to 12 volts, but to do so requires several changes besides the coils. More details on request.

Is it not getting spark, or not getting fuel thru the injectors ?
If its no spark, its usually the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor. You might also check for power at the coil from the EEC relay.

The coil needs battery voltage ( 12+ ) to function.
A faulty map sensor would not affect the ignition system unless it shorted out the computer.
Code 700 is for a problem with the transmission module.
Code 562 is for the charging system being below 11 volts.
Code 113 is for a problem with the intake air temp sensor circuit.

This engine uses a special flat cap and a standard rotor, right ? The spark comes into the cap and thru the rotor, then to the spark plugs.
Have you replaced the rotor ?
The spark can jump thru the rotor and ground thru the dist. shaft.
Depending on where you are testing for spark, the coil could also be weak and not pushing the spark to the plugs.

your oil change has nothing to do with your check engine light. probably needs spark plugs and a coil or 2

try to see if the crankshaft position sensor is getting current or is bad.

Using a volt meter disconnect the electrical plug to coil and check with key on to be sure there is at least 12 volt to coils. if not or voltage is low the ignition switch may be bad, have an assistant jiggle the key in ignition while you are looking at the meter to note voltage fluctuations if any are noted ign. switch is bad also check all fuses under dash as wellas in engine compartment.

I would first look at removing the injector on three and taking a look at it and give a thorough back flush. How does the spark plug on three look compared to any of the others, does it look hot (glazed) or sooty black. The former is too lean (perhaps a partially blocked injector) or the latter too rich (perhaps a leaky or split injector)

You might not have spark as the 12 volts needs a ballast resistor or the points burn out preytty quick. 8 volts at the coil in run with the points open and 0 with the points clsed and battery voltage at the coil when cranking. coil wire near the intake manifold while cranking should jump at least 2 inches. Closed points should be 0 volts at the neg on the coil. pos and neg should be the same 12 volts with the points open. if not either the coil or the points are bad. The condenser can fail and no spark with all the rest right