Did you start bleeding the brakes from the farthest wheel first? Try that and rebleed your Brakes cause it appears to have an air pocket in the lines.
Testimonial: "Yes we've done this every time, still having trouble with air in the left rear brake."
The ABS control unit needs to be specially bled as well as at the wheel brake cylinders. The procedure is in the service manual.
How did you manage to conclude it was the left rear brake assembly problem from a squisshy brake pedal? That would indicate there is still air in that line to the brake, and at least the brake fluid in that line may be very old - sounds like the system badly needs complete fluid replacement with brand new fluid, not just a partial bleed. If the fluid in the line to the rear brake has not been completely replaced, it could be that or a problem brake caliper
Testimonial: "Dont have ABS on this car"
SOURCE: Brakes no longer work in 1989 Chevy half ton pickup 2 wheel drive 350cubic inch
change dump valve under master cylinder
SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal
Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
SOURCE: stuck calipers
Brake lines are not releasing fluid back to master cylinder. Open bleeder and see if wheel will turn. If it does replace brake line to caliper
I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?
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