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Does the wires on a Intake air control valve ( IACV ) have a ground wire and hot wire or can you just put the 2 wires into the plug in and it doesn't matter for a 1997 Nissan pickup XE 2.4L engine ?

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Posted on Dec 15, 2008

motor1258

Mike Butler

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SOURCE: 1987 Nissan Pickup Truck Will not start it will crank. So i Did Tune up With wires spark plugs I Don't know the order of last 2 wires that go in center of dist cap. Please help and will this solve thi

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SOURCE: What is a BBEVAP control system purge control

BBEVAP? Yeah, I'm guessing you took it to autozone or something to have the codes ran. It has to do with pressure all around your car. The purge valve releases extra fumes in your car

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

emissionwiz

Marvin

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SOURCE: 1995 nissan pathfinder xe 8 speaker wiring COLOR

1995 Nissan Pathfinder Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue
Car Radio Ground Wire: Gray
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Red/Yellow
Car Radio Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Black
Rear Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Rear Speakers Location: Roof Mount
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Pink

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

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I have an 2003 alero that kills at low idol. Can happen while in drive or park


Here are Bunch of Well Known Pain in @#$@!%^^$# GM issues to check on ++ any or 2 or more will cause Surging and Stalling ....I am thinking O ring on Fuel injector gets Hot and Loss of Pressure occurs via Cracks in rubber seals ..This occurs in Turn motion when fuel in Rail is sloshed around . Even though pressure allows good starting the Heat 2 Plastic engine parts causes Expansion so a Crack that does not Visible Leak cold will If Searched for Hot ..Recommend a Strong Light even in Daytime to see if Leaks around Intake / Fuel injection areas .. Upper intake Plenum Air intake Gasket NOT SEALING right is common Hot issue on GM s ...Its a V6 the misfire tell me this right away ..Did it misfire before Tune Up ?? Even if it did the issue Now is Spark Plug wires have been Crossed or Wired out of Sequence / Order ...SOLUTION will cover many checks you must make . 1 st be sure Plug # 1 and each firing order Plug wire is matched up To proper ## on Magneto or Black plastic squarish box near valve cover ..OFTEN firing order was Clockwise on Ford / GM - that is old Distributor days ... Magneto driven is Left 2 Right.....Idle Surge is Present under Mis Wired conditions BUT you may check Magneto for Clean Ground surface in mounting bracket ...The Mags do false and wear out due 2 Heat so a Good Ground 2 Base mounting is needed .... Mechanics call them Coil Packs A Very Common since 1983 GM problem ....Buy aftermarket if Continuity Test proves they are Weak - Bosch or Standard make good Ignition parts . Since a Tune up was Done MAKE Sure plug wires have been Seated or Pushed on Tightly ..A CLEAN Air Filter can provide proper Air Flow at Start up - so Hold up to Sun Light then Flex it against Light 2 see if Lots of Light this will determine its Ability to Draw air ..NAPA sells a Spray Can = 10 bucks for Electronics cleaner that is used 2 Clean Mass air flow sensor visible when hose connections removed ..ALSO spray clean Intake air Temp sensor a small 2 wire attachment visible on outside of air intake hose .. The following is Called Fogging to Clean Fuel injection and is Best Done with Engine Running or Started right after all Below Items have been Spray cleaned +++ after 1 st spraying You must Rev engine 2 open Throttle plate and spray in direction of each Item .. The disconnected air box ++ intake Air Temp sensor with hose can be Off for Fogging Procedure but Wires plugged in .... Clean Throttle body intake at Plenum - or Intake at end of hose connection 2 main Fuel injectin Air intake .To do this remove Hose - Open Throttle via Someones help on Gas pedal or manually move it at Gas pedal cable connection - Then spray cleaner and be sure 2 get Idle control solenoid Tip visible when Throttle plate opens also on other side of this open plate is 2 nd Tip for EGR sensor be sure 2 spray it .. Final worst case issue is Fuel Pump in Tank can be Wearing out . Why you ask ?? You said young person Driving and If Poor Like me Then driving below 1 / 4 tank .. Yes electric fuel pumps when old Loose pressure when near bottom of Tank .. Stalling in / or after a Turn or sudden quick turn ++ Putting into Park after arriving in a sudden fashion will shift weight of car forward causing Gas in Tank To slosh / Move around .. All this Rapid movement moves Gas around and WILL Interfer with Inside of Tank electric Fuel pump ...Fuel supply interupt will cause misfire codes ...Driving habits by Old or Young often Help Pin Point a cause So see if any Trouble on Full Tank - If not Then Low fuel points Too electric fuel pump - Sadly it is inside of Tank = Major Job .. Try the Cheapest Ideals 1 st in my List ...Good Luck an hope it is simple Like a Loose plug wire ..............

Apr 24, 2015 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero

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Idle Air Speed Control valve on engines



1.4) IACV Idle Air Control Valve - Idle Speed Control Unit(actuator)

What is it? The idle air control valve is an electrically driven mechanism that allows additional control over the throttle at idle.

Where is it located? The IACV is located on or near to the throttle body and consists of a small device with an electrical connector.

How does it work? When the throttle is closed the throttle plate closes offair from the inlet manifold and normally this would cause the engine to stall immediately. To allow the engine to keep running the ECU makes use of the IACV system to permit the ingress of a limited amount of air. The IACV device is seen in two forms either a) a small motor driven valve on a passageway allowing air indirectly to pass to the inlet manifold plenum or b) a motor located on theTPS assembly that opens the throttle plate by a small degree to allow air through directly. Both systems are designed to allow air to by-pass the 'closed' throttle plate to maintain engine idle. The IAC also helps throttle respond to additional power demands being made on the engine such as using the power steering, air conditioning or moving the (automatic) transmission selector into 'drive'. Somecar manufacturers also have a separate 'hot idle' valve system and this is designed to operate for a relatively short period just during engine warm up. Such hot idle systems are accompanied by electrically driven IAC valves to maintain engine idle in the face of additional power demands.

Symptoms of faulty IACV
Associated OBD2 error codesDTCs: P1508, P1509

  • Poor starting, sudden stall: If the IACV fails to open or the inlet/exit ports are clogged shut with oily deposits the engine may ignite and then promptly stall. The engine can be kept running by pressing the accelerator. However any additional demand on the engine such as power steering or putting the car into drive (automatic) will cause the engine to stumble badly or stall.
  • Engine stall at stop sign: Even with the engine is warmed up, if the car comes to a halt such as a stop light the engine may stall. The engine will often restart immediately with little trouble

Thisdiffers from:-
a) TPS fault - engine stall when theaccelerator is depressed quickly, but will often restart without much trouble.
b) CKP or CMP fault - engine cuts out without warning and is resistant torestart until cooled down

How to check? Physically remove the IACV, keep the electrical connection and examine the state of the valve for carbon build up. Blank off the exposed IACV port(s) on the throttle body and turn the engine on; you may have to give it extra throttle until the engine has warmed up. Monitor the IACV valve movement in response to additional loads (power steering inputs etc) the valve should open and close according to demand. When refitted this action results change in engine speed in response to increased power demand.

The electrical connector to the IACV can have 2 or 4 pins:-
2pins: resistance between socket pins should about 10 OHMS +/- 3 OHMS. If this resistance is very high then there is break and the IACV is at fault.
4pins: resistance between diagonally positioned pins should be about 20 OHMS. If the resistance is very high this indicates that the IACV is faulty.

Resistance between the actual metal valve body and either of the socket pins should be greater than 10,000 OHMS. If there is little or no resistance thenthere is a short and the IACV is faulty.

How to fix? If the motor of the IACV has failed (no movement and fault resistance values) then replace it. If the valve is gummed closed by baked oil and carbon then clean it thoroughly with WD40 or carburettor/choke cleaner spray and a cloth. Similarly if the entry and exit ports on the throttle body to the IACV look dirty again clean them out thoroughly.


NEXT 1.5) TAC Throttle Actuator Control

on Jul 15, 2011 | Mercedes-Benz E-Class Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Code 0304&0505 skips runs better after idle


Trouble Code: P0304

Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

Possible Causes:


Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or PCV system.Base engine mechanical fault that affects only Cylinder 4.Fuel delivery component fault that affects only Cylinder 4 (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector).Ignition system problem (coil or plug) that affects Cylinder 4.Trouble Code: P0505

Idle Air Control, Auxiliary Air Control Valve Circuit Malfunction

Possible Causes:


IACV-AAC valve control circuit is open or shorted to ground.IACV-AAC valve control circuit is shorted to system power (B+).IACV-AAC valve is damaged or has failed.PCM is damaged or has failed.

Feb 08, 2013 | 2002 Nissan Xterra

1 Answer

My 2004 Honda CR-V occasionally won't start. Lights come on the dashboard, but the engine doesn't turn over. I'll wait a few minutes and try again, then it starts. It will work just fine for...


Hello and welcome to FixYa!
Looks like that you have a failing IACV (idle air control valve). If the IACV is faulty, the vehicle tends not to start or may stall during operation. I suggest that you have the vehicle scanned to know exactly what the fault is. Though I suspect that it's the IACV.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Aug 12, 2011 | Honda CR-V Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 96 nissan sentra shuts down at times in idle at stop light, allready installed new plugs roter and plug wires


Disconnect the air ducting between the air filter box and the throttle. Clean your throttle body interior with a cloth and plenty of carb choke spray (WD40 is good too). Idling is controlled by the engine's computer and the Idle Air Control Valve IACV . This device allows air passed the closed throttle plate when the engine is at idle. Locate the inlet port in front of the throttle plate in the inside wall of the throttle body. Locate the IACV on the outside of the throttle and remove it. Give it and associated passageways a really good clean. Make sure the valve and valve seat are free of crud. Re-assemble and this should cure the problem

Sep 21, 2010 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

2 Answers

Idle fluxuates up and down consistantly


Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

2 Answers

My 91 acura integra is stalling after idling for just a few minutes. I just bought the car and it ran fine until just recently. I also noticed a gas smell after the car started again.


Idle is controlled by two main sensors: the FITV and the IACV. The FITV is a mechanical valve that is controlled by coolant temperature (there is no ECU plug to it). When the coolant is cold, the valve is open and letting air into the Intake Manifold through a hole in the Throttle Body above the throttle plate. This creates a small vacuum leak which in turn lets the motor idle higher than normal (supposed to be above 1K RPM for warming up). As the coolant warms up the valve closes and no longer lets air in through the hole in the throttle body. From this point the IACV, which is Engine Control Unit controlled, is letting small amounts of air into the Intake Manifold through another hole in the Throttle Body. Any amount of extra air the ECU is not expecting will confuse it and you will get either a high idle or a roaming/hunting/fluctuating idle. The principal of engine to operate is a need to have a Fuel : Air ratio of 14.6:1. You smell the gas after restart since the unburnt gas, when the engine dies, got pushed out through the exhaust manifold.
Th following are in order one after the other until it fix problem.
1- Find and replace the vacuum leak on hoses mentioned above.
2- Clean the the gunk built up at holes mentioned above.
3- Replace thermal valve at engine block identified by two vacuum hoses connecting to the Throttle Body.
Good luck.

Sep 28, 2009 | 1991 Acura Integra Hatchback

3 Answers

2000 Lexus RX 300: Can start, but its engine goes down if ...


I can't speak to the leak, but the inability to idle is due to a bad low idle control valve. My 2000 RX300 was doing the exact same thing. It's about a $450 part.

Mar 20, 2009 | 2000 Lexus RX 300

2 Answers

Checking the fault codes


Yes.  Next to the ash tray there is a black slide off plate that reveals the OBD I plug.  {1996 and newer can be read with an OBD II reader (read for free at Advance auto or Auto Zone)}  Once you reveal this plug on the 1995, you can plug in a single jumper wire (or even a paper clip) in the #4 and #15 pin hole.  There are two rows of pin holes, count from the upper right to the #4, then on to #15 (which will be the second to last pin hole).  Turn the ignition switch on (motor not running), insert the jumper wire for about 3 to 5 seconds, then remove the wire.  The ENGINE LIGHT will flash a hold, then the code, which will go something like this, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, flash, flash.  Then it will repeat the codes if you just sit there and observe it.  The code in my example would be a 2214 code.
Below are some code I found on a website.  I hope this helps.  Now I ask that you take the time to answer someone elses question.  Lets all share.  Good luck, "Peace through power and knowledge"

CODE FAULT
0000 End of fault sequence
1111 Bad ground to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or ECU failure-check grounds or replace
ECU
1119 Transmission Range - Defective wiring. Check for break or short.
1213 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the wiring of
the instrument cluster
1231 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (G54) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the
wiring of the instrument cluster
1232 Throttle Position Actuator - Check defective actuator or wiring for break or short.
2111 Engine speed sender. (RPM)
2112 Ignition reference sender
2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.
2114 Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.
2121 Idle switch - check switch & circuit.
2122 Hall sender - Check wiring for break or short.
2123 Full throttle switch; check switch & circuit.
2132 Electronic Control Module (ECM) - No ignition to injection signal.
2141 Knock sensor 1 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2142 Knock sensor 1 signal - Test sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2143 Knock sensor 2 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2144 Knock sensor 2 signal; test sensor.
2212 Throttle Potentiometer - Value out of range.
2214 RPM Signal - Idle speed to high or engine over-revved
2221 Vacuum Control - No vacuum to control unit. Check for leaks.
2222 Manifold Vacuum - Check vacuum line and wastegate for leaks.
Pressure sensor - Sensor defective
2223 Altitude Sensor - Check sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2224 Turbo/Manifold pressure - Check turbo control wiring, check for over boost, air leak,
defective wastegate valve, vacuum leak or defective pressure sensor.
2231 Idle-speed stabilizer adjustment limits exceeded; too-fast idle. Adjust throttle for full
closing, check for vacuum leak, check ignition timing.
Or
Air Mass Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2232 Air mass/flow sensor - No signal. Check wiring for break or short.
2233 Air mass/flow sensor reference voltage open or short circuit
2234 ECM Supply voltage low.
2242 CO-potentiometer voltage low
2312 Coolant temperature sensor - Check wiring, check resistance.
2314 Transmission to Engine control module circuit. - Check wires for breaks or shorts.
2322 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2323 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks.
2324 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts to B+ or ground or
check for air leak.
2331 Oxygen Sensor Control - Out of range. - Check ignition, air intake for leaks and injectors.
2332 Oxygen Sensor - Bank 2 - Check wiring for breaks or shorts.
2341 Oxygen sensor (O2) at control limit; check CO, lambda-sensor wire, lambda-sensor
control, start valve, evaporative system and check for vacuum leaks.
2342 Oxygen Sensor Control - no signal - Check wiring, sensor.
2343 Rich limit; the pressure regulator has exceeded +10 mA for more than 5 minutes,
closed-loop; check for vacuum leaks.
2344 Lean limit; the pressure actuator has exceeded -5mA for more than 5 minutes, closed
loop; check idle.
2411 EGR System Malfunction
2412 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts
2413 Mixture Control - Running rich
Fuel pressure too low
3424 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure - Check lamp and wiring.
4311 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay - Check relay and wiring.
4312 EGR Frequency Valve
4313 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve - Check valve and wiring.
4331 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 2
4332 Ignition Circuit Final Stage - Check for break or short to ground or B+ or bad ECM.
4343 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 1
4411 Fuel Injector Cylinder 1 or 1 & 5
4412 Fuel Injector Cylinder 2 or 2 & 7
4413 Fuel Injector Cylinder 3 or 3 & 6
4414 Fuel Injector Cylinder 4 or 4 & 8
4421 Fuel Injector Cylinder 5
4422 Fuel Injector Cylinder 6
4423 Fuel Injector Cylinder 7
4424 Fuel Injector Cylinder 8
4431 Idle Air Control Valve / Idle Stabilizer - Check valve and wiring.
4433 Fuel Pump Relay
4442 Wastegate - Defective frequency valve or wiring.
Boost pressure circuit - Check for short.
4443 EVAP Canister purge valve.
4444 No fault in system.

Oct 17, 2008 | 1995 Volkswagen Jetta

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