Did you gap plugs?
Testimonial: "Yes, at .050"
You'll need to verify signal pulses per Robert Wood.
Thank you. I'll give it a try.
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Sounds bit complicated.. have u tried some help book? Or google? Or there's this website big-manuals.com
Try either
Scan tool see codes.That will assist you dont replace until done
Testimonial: "I have an OBD-2 scanner, but unfortunately it will not register unless the car is running. The day before I replaced the spark plugs, when it was running good it showed codes P0204 and P0304."
I have an OBD-2 scanner, but unfortunately it will not register unless the car is running. The day before I replaced the spark plugs, when it was running good it showed codes P0204 and P0304.
Ok get someone to try start while they do that you tap with screw driver plate under coil packs if it starts replace it
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Does it have a switching ground signal to the coils ?
Testimonial: "I tested the top wire and the light came on when I turned the key."
Touch each wire one at a time while cranking the engine over . One wire is the ground switch signal wire . On this wire touch the other end of the test light to battery positive and crank engine over and the light should flash on and off .
I did this just now and the light was on as soon as I connected the tester. When I turned it over the light went out and came back on when I turned the key into the off position with all cylinders.
Could all 6 of the coils go bad in just a few hours? I have power going to all the coils but I just checked one and there is no fire coming from it. The car ran fine before replacing the spark plugs.
It never attempted to fire at all ?
No. It turns over but does not try to fire up at all.
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Check to see if you left distributor cap off!
Testimonial: "No. I never took it off."
Coil per cylinder .
Yes. there is a separate coil for each cylinder.
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SOURCE: chrysler LHS won't start!!
Driver side at rear of engine next to oil pan goes into the bell housing.
SOURCE: Location of oil drain plug
Bottom passenger side of oil pan. On the side of the pan. It is a metric bolt and the pan is aluminum, be careful not to strip plug when threading it back in.
SOURCE: chrysler LHS won't start!!
the starter is on the right side of the motor down below the the air intake bolted to the transmission three bolts and it comes off
SOURCE: oil in 1 1997 chrysler lhs spark plug tube
although I am not familiar with this particular engine my son's Mazda Miata had oil in the plug holes and it only required a new valve cover gasket to fix it.
SOURCE: 1994 CHRYSLER LHS. CHANGED PLUGS, CHANGED WIRES,
if you have fuel look at crank ,cam, map,tps, sensors
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Could all 6 of the coils go bad in just a few hours? I have power going to all the coils but I just checked one and there is no fire coming from it. The car ran fine before replacing the spark plugs.
The power supply wire should light the test light steady with engine cranking over . It may fluctuate a little from starter current draw but not blink on and off . The ground signal pulse wire if hooked to battery positive will blink on and off constantly as you crank the engine over .
Unless the power train control module has bought the farm it is hopefully a loose connection . I will see if I can locate a diagram for wire location and color from the PCM . When cranking it over does the tachometer register ?
Yes. The tach does work while cranking. It shows around 200-500 RPM's or so when cranking.
When cranking the power supply only comes on for a second or two and goes out on all cylinders.
Have you checked the ASD relay in the under hood fuse block . Automatic shutdown relay or it's circuit wiring and connections may have a fault causing loss of power to the coils .
Just a question,first! What am I trying to figure out, what you did? I'm guessing you replaced the distributor points, rotor and Cap? AND now not starting, am I right? If so did you for some reason loosen the distributor so it turns or not? If answer is NO, problem is something you did, 1) Did you leave rotor cap off? answer is NO. 2) Did you replace the plug wires, answer yes, did you get them in right firing order and wire going to right cylinder, this is the most come mistake! Ok to understand how this works, when engine cranks there is a firing order, make sure you have the proper plug wire going from distributor to spark plug. get the book out and it will tell you this this is what the problem is, car will crank just won't start, now ensure wires are going to proper cylinder, engine cylinders don't start front to back or back to front that is the firing order of the cylinder to distributor ect any plug wire or distributor wire in wrong place, it will miss fire or not start at all! hope this explains it!
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