I have a Case 1270 and snapped the end off the 1000 rpm pto out put shaft. There are 3 bolts on the seal which I removed but I cant remove the seal or cast collar. Any advice would be appreciated.

Just remove the center bolt of the PTO/pully. The pully is made to and is part of the PTO. Once the center bolt is removed there's nothing else holding it. Remove the belt before the bolt. You may need to tab downward on it to get it off for there may be a little rust holding it on the shaft. But, when you remove the center bolt, be ready for it to drop so disconnect the electric feed at the PTO connection.

The passenger side has a inner and outer shaft and you would remove the axle nut and shaft from spindle then the center bracket and bearing (two bolts against engine block), sliding out the axle assembling at that point, or jerking it out, careful not to pull on the cv axle end but rather the jack, or inner, shaft. After removal, separate the middle by hanging upside down and taking a hammer to it, striking the inner shaft while turning around. Dont hit the dust shield or seals. Install in reverse order. Quick tip: you may get around removing ball joint by only removing both strut bolts, and possibly tie rod end bolt.

First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.

Loosen the wheel hub nut.
Remove the front road wheel and tire.
Remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
Using the special tool 204-192 Ball joint Splitter
detach the tie rod end.
Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Loosen the subframe rear mount bolt.
Loosen the subframe front mount bolt.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
using spcial tools 204-269Forcing Screw,205-491-01 adapter nuts,205-491 wheel hub puller
Detach the wheel knuckle.
Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Reposition the lower arm.
Detach the wheel knuckle.
using special tools 307-443 RH Halfshaft splitter ,307-442 RH Halfshaft splitter handle
detach the halfshaft.
Remove the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Remove the halfshaft seal.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
To prevent damage to the transfer box internal seal,
make sure that the link shaft is not retracted further than
200 mm from the transfer box casing.
remove the halfshaft.
Attach special tools to the halfshaft.
Lever the special tools to displace the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the halfshaft.
Use suitable protective covers to protect the barshaft.
Remove the halfshaft snap ring.
Install a new snap ring to the halfshaft.
Install a new halfshaft seal.
Remove the special tool.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the special tool.
Make sure the CV joint splines are located fully.
Do not use excessive force when engaging the CV joint into the link shaft.
Install the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Reposition the lower arm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Install the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Tighten to 83 Nm.
Install the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Tighten the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
Tighten to 142 Nm.
Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
Install the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Tighten to 35 Nm. Tighten to 142 Nm.
Install the tie rod end.
Tighten to 35 Nm.
Loosely install a new wheel hub nut.
Install the front road wheel and tire.
Tighten the wheel hub nut.
Tighten to 330 Nm.
Check the subframe alignment.

this is very hard if you do not know what you are doing. Ill try to step you through this

• pull wheels
• drain pun-kin case
• pull rear cover
• in between the spider and axle sets pull C ring with needle nose pliers
• pull hub and axle out CAREFULLY as there are roller bearings on the end of the axle housing
• pull seal out at the end of axle housing
• tap in new seal CAREFULLY and straight DO NOT BEND IT or it will be junk
• replace axle carefully as the roller bearings are still there
• replace C clip to original position
• replace axle diff cover and replace the gasket with a new one
• refill diff case
  
• install tire
• your good to go
  

You might have to hit the joint the wrong way to reveal a c-clip on the shaft to remove first.

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
   
2. Remove the right wheel.
3. Position a drain pan under the axle.
4. Remove the stabilizer bar.
5. Remove the skid plate.
6. Disconnect the right inner tie rod end at the relay rod.
7. Remove the axle shaft flange bolts, turn the wheel to loosen the axle from the axle tube, push the axle towards the front of the truck and tie it out of the way.
8. Unplug the indicator switch and actuator electrical connectors.
9. Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid from the case.
10. Remove the axle tube-to-frame mounting bolts.
11. Remove the axle tube-to-carrier bolts.
12. Remove the axle tube/shaft assembly. Keep the open end up.
13. Position the axle tube, open end up, in a vise by clamping on the mounting flange.
14. Remove the snapring, sleeve, connector and thrust washer from the shaft end.
15. Tap out the axle shaft with a plastic mallet.
16. Turn the tube, outer end up, and pry out the deflector and seal.
17. Using a slide hammer and bearing remover adapter, remove the bearing.
18. Clean all parts in a non-flammable solvent and inspect them for wear or damage. Clean off all old gasket material.

I see that the solution given is for an axle shaft and not the drive shaft that was asked about. I am 99% sure that if you take out the bolts the other end will slide out of the t-case. Then the u-joint can be replaced as normally done.

snap ring? Its a full floater! Take bolts off end of shaft pull shaft out,remove bearing lock nut (the correct socket works so sweet!), pull hub and rotor off, The studs hold the rotor to hub or some have external torx bolts that hold it to the hub.Remove those and you may need to tap hard with a hammer to separate. Where is that snap ring?
You will need new seals,and studs are a good idea,how do those parking brake shoes look?

Have to remove wheel, have someone push brakes on & undo nut to shaft in center of hub, undo lower ball joint on control arm & pry it out, move lower control arm out from shaft, then remove shaft from transmission, then do seal. Don't forget, going back in shaft should snap in.( little retainer ring on end.)