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Posted on Sep 04, 2017

My 2006 mustang, with 44,000 miles all of the sudden, had a bad battery. Was running and starting fine before that. Replaced the battery and it runs fine, but will try to stall out at stop signs or when I put it into park. Thought it was just the computer rebooting, but it has done it several times now, always when the RPMs are low. Is this transmission? Fuel? Computer?

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Irene Gentry

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  • Posted on Sep 04, 2017
 Irene Gentry
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Test alternator. Belt. Pully. These will all cause lack of power when your foot isn't on the gas.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/irene_c09ae7cee54bc01a

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2008

SOURCE: f350 2000 stalling and sputtering while driving after running a while or runs fine

Many possibilities:
Is it a Diesel?
Camshaft position sensor recall may cover it.
Gas or Diesel:
Fuel Pump and/or relay.
Fuel Filter.

Engine codes could help if Check Engine Light is on.

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Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 16, 2008

SOURCE: engine stalls at stop lights and stop signs

sounds like the torque converter lock up might not be disengaging. You might also want to check for engine vacuum leaks. Does engine idle smoothly when in park or nuetral ? if the idle is good I would suspect torque converter problem.

Anonymous

  • 453 Answers
  • Posted on May 27, 2009

SOURCE: Car stalls as I pull away from a stop.

Your fuel pump starting to go

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 21, 2009

SOURCE: Windstar 2001 had it since new. over 120,000 miles

The problem with your van is the CAM Sensor, I believe the noise you are hearing is kind of a chirping sound. I just had mine fixed (12/19/09) it was about $150 for parts and labor from a local Mech. not a dealer.

Anonymous

  • 593 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 31, 2010

SOURCE: 1965 Mustang 289 2v 2100 carb. The car runs fine

It sounds like the choke may not be opening completely. Check the choke tube from the choke assy. to the exaust manifold. The tube often breaks off at the manifold. There was a repair kit from a co.
called toke.(it was the 60's)The part# was ux-1 it had a new copper tube+sleeve and a fitting, that you would place over the broken piece in the manifold tap
it with a hammer and it knocks out the old + installs
the new fitting. Push in the new tube and install the
other end into choke assy. If it's an elec.choke check
the voltage at the wire to the choke assy. it should be between 7-12 volts, if not check for a fuse in line or at
the fuse block. I don't recall exactly where it is. But if
neccesery you can run a new wire with a 20amp in
line fuse, from the choke plug to the S(stator)connection on the alternator. This will provide enough
juice to expand the bimetal spring in the choke housing. And only when it's needed. When the engine is running..Also the choke can be adjusted
whether it's the tube or elec. You can adjust the choke spring by turning the black plastic cover.
There should be 2 arrows pointing clockwise+counter
clockwise. After the choke is fixed you can fine tune
it by loosining the 3 screws and turning to rich or lean as needed. Hope this helps.

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