This issue started after a minor drivers side fender bender. I dropped off the van for an estimate, having started it a few times after the collision, and upon returning the next day to pick it up, all I got when turning the key was one solid "click" from the starter. After trying several times, attempting to start in neutral, checking for voltage, hearing the fuel pump prime on cue each time and trying to think other possibilities through, I gave up and left it at the shop. I returned with a friend the next day to try again with jumper cables. This did not work, but he was more persistant than I. He began cranking it very quickly what must have been 20-30 times and then it started right up!
I took it to the dealer and they told me the problem was the anti-theft. They told me they disabled it, but eventually the problem came back.
For years I dealt with this and whenever the problem arose, I would crank away and it never let me down. Since I was a little embarrased though never stranded (I did have to wait a little sometimes, though I'm baffled as to how this helped), I never troubleshot further... I joined the military, parked it for five years while over seas, came back, carefully resurrected it, and then it was just like old times, only now I cared as it was almost making me late for work and the problem seemed more frequent. As had been the case before, between shifting from park to neutral, I often had no response in park at all where as neutral would at least get the starter "click." I checked the neutral safety switch with a meter and it read correctly and I even removed it and physically observed the inside of the transmission lining up correctly with the switch location in all gears. I replaced it anyway, and there was no change. Leaving that mystery behind, I removed and bench tested the starter at Autozone. (yes, I had already tried the hammer assist during ignition.) Starter tested good repeatedly. I disassembled it and cleaned it anyway. No change. I BOUGHT A NEW ONE, though I knew in the back of my mind it would not make a difference. It didn't. No change. (Please note at this point I had cleaned if not reterminated all the contacts, bushings, cables, etc). The problem started getting worse, and the wait period longer. I had to depend on a different vehicle. One day I tried the ignition, no joke - more than 1,000 times. My wrist was killing me. I left it and it started the next day after a few clicks.
This last winter, it progressively got much worse and finally would not start. BUT the SECOND to FINAL trip before it quit, the van choked and sputtered along the freeway slowly losing power, but giving me enough time to exit a few miles later before coming to a halt. It had never done anything like this before. I am an expert at monitoring the fuel level, and I knew it was not low as the fuel level light had just come on which with my vehicle indicates I have 5 gallons left to empty (1/4 tank!). I had just driven it cross country, and it had completely new fluids and filters (oil, trans, fuel and air). I sat for a bit and then was able to drive home, though performance was occasionally shaky. It never started again (but one time) for months!!
And I tried ALL I could think of. I bought a 100% functional parts van- I didn't care that I could drive this instead, I wanted to sacrifice it to solve the problem!!! I never ended up using any parts off it as all tests on the problem van showed good components. Fuel pressure was solid (I forget, something around 45-50lbs, but it was on the money) Cam and crank shaft sensors were good, ignition coil pack pulses were in line with correct ignition sequence, but didn't continue as the van would not start. Swapped coil pack anyway. Removed both computers and cleaned their housings and contacts. I did not exchange any computers as I did not want to pay to reprogram. Then I tried pointless dumb stuff like starter fluid. NO EFFECT even with coil pack spark (and spark to first plug) and flywheel turning. It had become evident that this was electrical beyond me. I had spent by this point weeks on this. There weren't even any fault codes! Only once, one random day with no different circumstances than any other, all original parts configured normally, it started. it was the most hellascious, unexpected clickity clapity, raucous commotion (thankfully no grinding/screeching)... I let that go on for about two minutes and recorded it. Then I shut it off to ponder. It didn't start after that. Anyway a couple months later I towed it. I'm always sad seeing something I have to tow get picked up.
I have a mechanic in town that I trust. I wanted him to diagnose it using the computer that the dealer has which many mechanics have the "Snap-On" brand equivalent of. "$50." Let's do it! He said he'd be able to get to it the next day, and he did... but he never tested it :( He hopped in the drivers seat and saw the old switch for the anti-theft system (the system the dealer was supposed to permanently disable), flicked it over and the van started right up! Iiiiiiiii was a little unhappy and a disbeliever, but hey, it was working like every time!wt?
As I mentioned, I'm in the military. I got deployed with 48 hrs notice that weekend and was gone for 7 months. I'm a little happy now because I came back and the van is back to it's usual tricks no matter which way you flip the stupid anti-theft switch (there never was a label) or how long you wait. My best guess is either it is electrical and possibly has something to with temp and humidity/other environmental factors, or that it is physical and getting towed to the shop knocked something around allowing it to work again.
That's all I've got. That's where I stand today. Hope it was clear enough. It's current behavior is if I can get it out of the driveway that day, it will more than likely make it's way back home without issue. That's where I sit. My father bought this van in 94. I've held on to it through several other vehicles since 2000/01.
Well you were very clear and have done a good job at diagnosing yourself well im assuming you have checked all the fusible links and fuses but i would find out how to bypass that security switch and check the auto shut down circuit well good luck im kinda at a loss i could probbably figure it out if i had it to work on but all i can do is guess at this time i hope you get it fixed
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Yes, I tested and swapped for known good relays on starter, ignition and pump. It was one of the first things I did. Sorry I forgot to mention that! Thank you for your question - Jack
To some all that up: Current symtoms, possible attributing factors - problem began after front driver side light collision at ~120k mi. Currently at about 165K >>Neutral attempts start every time, park sometimes doesn't respond to ignition switch - usually only after you switch back from neutral. See other neutral safety notes in descrip >>Starter often elicits only a click YET (and I had forgot to mention) the vehicle is just as likely to turn over quickly and repeatedly as if to start like a champ, but starved of fuel or something for quite a while, all the way to the point of battery failure. It's about 50/50 clicking vs turning over on those times where it does not start. It'll be one or the other. Never a mix. >>Fuel pressure has always been consistantly correct at the rail. Never symptoms of pump failure other than the possibilty in the highway story previously described. Currently a solid performer during driving though >>If it overcomes the issue during these problematic periods and starts, it ALWAYS just suddenly starts strong and keeps running as if normal.
To some all that up: Current symtoms, possible attributing factors - problem began after front driver side light collision at ~120k mi. Currently at about 165K >>Neutral attempts start every time, park sometimes doesn't respond to ignition switch - usually only after you switch back from neutral. See other neutral safety notes in descrip >>Starter often elicits only a click YET (and I had forgot to mention) the vehicle is just as likely to turn over quickly and repeatedly as if to start like a champ, but starved of fuel or something for quite a while, all the way to the point of battery failure. It's about 50/50 clicking vs turning over on those times where it does not start. It'll be one or the other. Never a mix. >>Fuel pressure has always been consistantly correct at the rail. Never symptoms of pump failure other than the possibilty in the highway story previously described. Currently a solid performer during driving though >>If it overcomes the issue during these problematic periods and starts, it ALWAYS just suddenly starts strong and keeps running as if normal.
To some all that up: Current symtoms, possible attributing factors - problem began after front driver side light collision at ~120k mi. Currently at about 165K >>Neutral attempts start every time, park sometimes doesn't respond to ignition switch - usually only after you switch back from neutral. See other neutral safety notes in descrip >>Starter often elicits only a click YET (and I had forgot to mention) the vehicle is just as likely to turn over quickly and repeatedly as if to start like a champ, but starved of fuel or something for quite a while, all the way to the point of battery failure. It's about 50/50 clicking vs turning over on those times where it does not start. It'll be one or the other. Never a mix. >>Fuel pressure has always been consistantly correct at the rail. Never symptoms of pump failure other than the possibilty in the highway story previously described. Currently a solid performer during driving though >>If it overcomes the issue during these problematic periods and starts, it ALWAYS just suddenly starts strong and keeps running as if normal.
Only thing I did not see in your narration is if you changed the starter relay?
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