Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4.OL i add 24 OZ.of R134.the pressure on the gauge is a little pass 55 psi. the gauge is in the red the air is cold coming through the vent did i add to much? i believe the system have a leak in it the pressure was 20 psi. yesterday morning the day before it was 40 psi.
Is the 55 reading at idle --raise idle and if goes down your fine and yes the red is indication of to much freon hook up guage and observe the pressure if went down have leak and will need to have leak test done for repair
Posted on Jul 07, 2019
The gauge should be in the green at all times, also if the compressor is making noise you may want to add a/c oil, but you will have to evacuate some freon, if you are adding freon may have a leak or a partially clog system and the freon gets forced out under high pressure
Posted on Jul 07, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is a port and it takes r123a and it has a green port on it but if it's leaked out you mave have to have it vachumed out, if you charge it be sure to get R134a with oil so that you don't burn up the pump, when the thing leaks it loses oil.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
Hi, You should have between 40 and 50 PSI on the low pressure side with engine running and A/C blowing on high to get cold air. 20PSI is undercharged. The system holds around 3 LBS. total.
Posted on Jun 14, 2011
You need a set of A/C gauges (hooked up to high and low ports) to determine problem
Posted on Aug 04, 2011
Was the a/c compressor running when you got this reading?
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
Posted on Feb 03, 2012
Not likely, but Is Hot water flowing to heater coil in back? How hot is "very hot" Is it a refrigerant line? If a refrigirant line, Very Hot means it is hot gas from the compressor that "should be going to the condenser coil usually in front of the radiator. It's almost impossible for that Hot refrigerant gas to go to the cooling coil in the back unless you had some repairs done and they weren't certified. My guess is the radiator hot water is not being controlled properly, due to bad valve or control system components.
Posted on Jun 07, 2015
Testimonial: "Hi gbob59 - Thanks for your input. Ther are 4 lines running alng the passenger side of the car. With engine on , but NO A/C on, the smaller tube (closest to the car and closest to eh side of the car) is cold. Next to it is a larger tube which is also cold (neither is very very cold, they just feel like cold metal). Below them are two larger diameter tubes, both of which are warm. The tube closest to the interior of the car gets hotter but maybe ~ 110F or so, you can still touch it. With A/C on front only the situation does notchange. When the rear A/C is turned on the small diameter tube gets progressively warmer (but never too hot to handle) and by comparison the tube next to it seems cold. The other tubes, closer to the ground, just stay hot. There has been no A/C work done at all. I recently had front brakes and rotors put on and front struts replaced(at STS) and was going to do rear brakes myself. I also did change number three plug and coil pack last week but the A/C problem pre-dated that. I mention these in case you think something might have been dislodged in the process. What valve or control system for the radiator are you thinking about? FYI car has 66000 miles. Thanks."
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