I have a bennche 700 big horn side by side, I have no spark. I replaced the spark plug and the coil. all the fuses are ok. I don"t know what to do next.

did you check for voltage at the coil pack low tension input
this comes from the electronic ignition and the distributer dc setting on a multimeter

check inside the distributer that the little magnet is still in place on the rotor and that the sensor is outputing pulses as it turns over
{you can use a meter set to AC range for this ...}
pull a plug out and place its metal to ground check for actual sparks
if this is there then its fuel ...

IF this is really just temporary, locate the wire going to the horn(s)
Find where you`re going to get the +12V feed, direct from the battery, cigarette lighter, spare hot terminal at fuseblock. any place that`s hot with the key switch off.
Connect one wire of the inline fuse holder to the +12V source you have selected.
If you don`t know for sure that the horn(s) are OK run a wire from the other side of the fuse holder to the horn feed, and connect temporarily, it should honk.
If all is well there run that fused wire to one side of your switch and the other side to the horns.
That`s it.

Check the points in the distributer also could be bad coil or ignition fuse

It says that the pickup in the distributor on the duraspark III has been replaced by the crank sensor this causes the spark now

Was the car running ok prior to this no start?Did it start missing or loosed power?
The horn thing is unusual but can be triggered by cars alarm system or ECU fault.
Does car have an alarm?was the battery run flat or changed just prior to this fault?
They both will inhibit spark if alarm locked on or faulty,as for ECU fault.
Depending on the model.They have a coil mounted on the fire wall that does fail.Check for spark at the centre tower with insulated pliers and holding the lead close to a bare metal area of engine area.
Run a test light on +ve side of coil.if it has power to it.it will light.the other side should flash on crank to indicate trigger from distributor.if ok and no output from tower lead,replace coil.
The model described;to access the coil bolts that fall inside panel when loosened,remove the plastic grille below the wipers.
I hope this helps or get back to me with your findings.

it sounds like the plug in the back of the radio has come loose. remove radio and check connection. as far as the horn PULL THE WIRE FROM THE HORN UNDER THE HOOD THEN RUN A TEST LEAD FROM THE + SIDE OF YOUR BATTERY TO THE HORN IF IT HONKS REPLACE THE HORN RELAY IF NOT REPLACE THE HORN. GOOD LUCK

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)

If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Is it sparking between boots or is it from the boot to the engine? You need to use dielectric grease on the boot on the coil to stop leakage of voltage between coil towers, I can't find the 2006 laser so chose a model similar to that model. With the engine off and you pull the spark plug wires put a little bit of the special grease on your finger and put it on the inside of the boot of the spark plug wire at the coil and at the spark plug. Be sure to not get any on the spark plug metal tip or on the metal on the coil pack. When removing the spark plug wire from the coil and plug be sure to twist it with the engine being cold so that you don’t ruin the spark plug wires. This should stop the leakage, if not then you have a defective coil/ coil pack and need to see if there is a carbon track or a crack in the coil assembly itself, let me know if this helps and get back to me if you need more assistance.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Ignition-Coil_190_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS__coil___

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.