Everytime im driving slow and i brake my brakes grind and i have to press hard to come to a stop. it rarely happens when im going at higher speeds although it has happened. Whats the problem?

• Knowing the warning signs of impending trouble can go a long way toward keeping your car from a highway breakdown.
  
  You need to develop an awareness of how your car should sound. For instance, when you turn the key to start, the gear like sound of the starter motor engaging should be smooth and sound like an electric motor working hard to crank the engine. If you notice a different sound - more like a grinding - chances are you have a starter motor problem about to happen. Let's say you're driving along and you feel the steering wheel vibrating at certain speeds. The onset of this subtle vibration could tip you off to a tire that needs to be balanced, worn steering linkage or a bulge in a tire that may be about to blow out. In any case, the vibration needs attention. Normally you shouldn't notice the sound of the exhaust system. A sudden change in your car's sound, therefore, isn't something to ignore.
  
  Suppose you're used to a pleasant hum, then, perhaps after a bump or when starting up the car one morning, there's a loud roaring that sound like a hot rod without a muffler. The harder you press the gas pedal. The louder the noise becomes. A noisy exhaust means the exhaust gases are blowing out under the car rather than at the rear of the car - a dangerous condition. Brakes play their own warning tune. On many cars, a scratching noise coming from the wheels that stops when you stop pressing on the brake pedal is caused by a low-brake warning device. Its purpose is to warn you that you need front brake pads. A loud grinding noise when you step on the brake pedal is an alarm that your brakes need immediate attention. The grinding noise occurs when the brake pads are totally worn away and the metal of the brake pad backing plate rubs directly on the brake rotor.
  
  Ignoring grinding brakes can be a costly - or even deadly - error. Shock absorbers help keep the car steady and balanced while the wheels roll over bumps and ruts. Their modern counterpart, the MacPherson strut, does essentially the same thing. You might not notice worn shocks or struts when you're simply riding around town. The safety effect of these devices comes into play at higher speeds. When you hit a bump, the tire wants to bounce like a basketball. Worn shocks or struts allow the ties to bounce out of control making steering difficult and braking less effective.
  
  What you may notice is the car rocking more every time you stop, assuming an almost boat like quality. Old, broken or worn out shocks and struts should be replaced to ensure safe steering and braking at higher speeds. Engine noises are easiest to hear when the car is not moving. Transmission sounds or brake noises usually occur when the car is moving. Pay attention to any new sound and keep notes - how it sounds, when it makes the sound and what difference, if any, occurs in driving when the noise is present - to help you describe it to your service dealer.

Try replacing or resurfacing your rotors and brake hardware. Using brake pads similar to the oem will also help stop any problems.

This sounds like a definite case of worn brake pads. They might have previously fitted pads with soft linings for better stopping power and if your truck is automatic the pads wear down faster on automatics than manual.Ask them to fit pads with harder linings if they have available, but you will have to machine those brake disc's to re-smoothen them or fir new ones(A better proposition) as they are most probably scoured from metal against metal and fitting new pads onto scoured disc's will not only make your brake drums run very hot, but also wear down pads faster than normal and cause poorer braking response.Or maybe that was the problem from the beginning, scoured disks from before a year ago! Check it out good luck.

you probably need brakes and/or a wheel bearing.

Sounds like a front disc brake or a axel,check both sides

Your description sounds like a condition called overactive ABS. the grinding nee is the abs pump engaging which will also cause the brake pedal to fade. What is happening is the abs system thinks a wheel is locking up at slow speed even though all the wheels are turning. The abs engages to correct the condition even though there is nothing to correct. Some common failures that will cause this are a bad wheel speed sensor, incorrect wheel speed sensor gap, or a bad exciter ring. The easiest way to figure this out is with a higher end multi-function scan tool capable of reading abs data. With all four wheel speeds displayed drive the vehicle to duplicate the symptom. When the symptom occurs you should be able to see what speed sensor is dropping out. You can then focus on that wheel by checking the common failures. If you have any further questions i'll be happy to answer them.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

You will have to go to Advance Auto Parts, or Auto Zone, and they will scan your computer for free and let you know whats going on. From what you are saying your vehicle may be in "limp" mode which begins to shut down certain functions to maintain stability such as governed speed, fuel consumption etc.

take it back to the dealer it should last forever not just two weeks

The problem is either a bad CV joint or is it possible that the brakes are worn.

I have the same truck and it did what your describing, it's the front wheel speed sensor, one in each wheel bearing. What happens is rust gets under the speed sensor lifting it up enough to send a false volt reading which causes the ABS to come on and off. If you can remove your brake rotors to access your wheel bearings, you will have to carefully remove the sensor and clean the mounting surface then push the sensor back in and tighten the bolt. This was a recall for GM trucks, but don't know if still is. This only happens when in slow speeds which could cause a collision when it doesn't stop in time. Anyways you could pull the big ABS fuse under the hood and still drive it until it's fixed, You will have just normal breaks then. Still driving mine that way! Hope this helps you