How do i changs axle shaft on a 2001 toyota echo? and what size is the 12 point axle nut?

I show it is a 30mm (front)

remove road wheel . remove axle nut , uncouple lower strut and pull disc housing out wards may have to tap axle. the axle is held in the diff housing with a c clip but come out with a sharp pull.

Requires a 12 point - 30mm socket, you must also punch up the retaining dings to release it.

30mm 12 point half inch socket

to remove front axle.to loosen front axle nut leave vechicle weight on wheel then just loosen front axle nut because axle nut torque at 217 ft lbs torquehard to loose axle nut with vechicle weight off wheel.okay. you need a 1/2 breaker bar and axle socket to loosen axle nut dont use 12 points sockets need go auto parts store buy right socket for axle nut.okay when you loosen front axle nut you need safely raise support vechicle. need to remove wheels remove fender apron seal remove transaxle fluid remove transfercase oil if you have 4WD.remove hub nut remove stabilizer bar link remove speed sensor remove tie rod end remove lower arm from the ball joint then slide the halfshaft from the hub then carefully pry the shaft from the transaxle.then install new front axle push in make sure front axle snap ring on front axle snap in place inside transmission just pull a little on front axle make its in place. when all done tighten front axle much as you can then when done putting every thing back in place.lower vechicle need torque front axle nut to 217 ft lbs.

You mean the big axle nut? You need a stout 1/2 inch breaker bar and the proper sized deep well socket on the nut. Loosen the nut while the car is still on the ground, you may even need a cheater bar on the breaker bar-the axle nuts are torqued down mighty tight-about 200 foot pounds. Once you break it loose, then raise the car on jackstands, remove the nut and washer, and push the axle back from the spindle. If the axle shaft is stubborn and won't move yet, put a piece of wood on the end of the shaft and rap it pretty hard with a mallet or hammer.to break it free from its tight fit inside the spindle or knuckle.

TO REMOVE FRONT WHEEL BEARING.YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS.MAKE SURE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.BEFORE RAISING VECHICLE OFF GROUND YOU NEED TO LOOSEN HALF SHAFT AXLE NUT JUST A LITTLE BECAUSE WHEEL IN THE AIR HARD TO LOOSEN AXLE NUT WHEN YOU HAVE HOLD THE WHEEL WHILE LOOSEN THE AXLE NUT WHICH IS TORQUE ON ABOUT 200 FT LBS.USING A SIX POINT AXLE SOCKET SOCKET SIZE COULD BE 34 OR 35 METRIC 1/2 INCH SOCKET.YOU NEED 1/2 INCH BREAKER BAR.ONCE YOU LOOSEN AXLE NUT A LITTLE THEN RAISE VECHICLE THEN REMOVE WHEEL.THEN FINISHING REMOVING AXLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE USING A PIECE OF WIRE.REMOVE BRAKE ROTOR.THEN REMOVE THE 3 HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY BOLTS. USE A SWIVEL SOCKET GOING TO BE HARD TO REACH SPOT WITH A REGULAR SOCKET. REMOVE THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY.REMOVE HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY. PUT EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA. TORQUE HUB BEARING BOLTS TO 70 FT LBS. TORQUE AXLE NUT 284 FT LBS IF YOUR CAR IS 1998 MODEL AND TORQUE AXLE NUT 100 FT LBS FOR THE 1999 TO 2001 MODELS.THE WHEEL HAS TO BE ON THE GROUND JUST ENOUGH TO KEEP IT FROM TURNING.DONT LET ALL THE CAR WEIGHT DOWN UNTIL YOU HAVE TORQUE WHEEL TO THE RIGHT TORQUE.LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.

Size 36mm.socket for the axle nut and a 18mm wrench for the caliper bolts!

It is a 30 mm 12 point socket not 6 point

The first thing I'd look at are the universal joints at each end of the front axle. You don't say how many miles are on it, but your Grand is old enough for them to need replacing. To remove them is fairly straight forward and not too difficult, just time consuming.

Lift and support the front end, you can put your jack stands under the axle. Remove the front tires, brake calipers and rotors. Next, you'll need to remove the large axle nut. To do this remove the cotter pin, then using a 36mm socket to remove the nut. I'm pretty sure about the socket size, but I could be wrong as it's been a couple of years since the last time I did this. If you don't have the right size socket, or the nut just won't budge, don't sweat it....you don't have to remove that nut to take it all apart. Next, you'll need a 12 point, 13mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the hub assembly in place. These bolts are on the back side of the steering nuckle. You have to have the 12 point socket as a 6 point won't work. However, if you have a 13mm closed end wrench, that will work as well, albeit slower than a ratchet. An air ratchet is really nice here. Once those three bolts are out, the hub should slide out. Don't worry if it won't, it may take a little coaxing with a mallet to free it. Some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil will do wonders. Right now might be a good time to remove the differential cover to allow the old axle oil to drain out while the penetrating oil goes to work. Having this cover off will make reinstalling the axle shafts easier during reassembly. Whether or not you got that axle nut off will determine just how things happen next. If you got the axle nut off, then the hub assembly will slide out of the steering knuckle leaving the axle shaft in place, then you just pull the axle shaft out. If you didn't get that axle nut off, then the hub assembly and axle shaft will come out at the same time. The universal joint that you see approximately 4-6 inches from the hub assembly is what needs to be replaced. Unless you have a bench press, I'd take it to a local garage where they can replace the joint for just a few dollars plus the cost of the U-joint. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. You may have to rotate each axle shaft as you install them to make sure they engage the splines in the spider gears inside the differential. Don't worry, if you don't get them lined up, the axles won't slide all the way in. Once everything is back together, replace the differential cover and refill with gear oil.