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SOURCE: dacor convection oven cps127/130 failure code f1
i found my circuit/schematic tucked inside the back panel in a envelope, you have to remove the oven from the wall to gat to it and start un screwing the panels, i think it was on the top.
SOURCE: circuit board light blinks 3 times heater will not turn on
The error code refers to a defective combustion air switch. Coleman Evcons made around 2007 had defective pressure switches or as they call them "combustion air switch". Replace it and the problem is gone.
SOURCE: 98 Rodeo - ABS light on all the time, Relay Error?
I had a similare problem. Mechanic found a broken ABS wire connection in the rear left shock area. It did not solve the issue. I pulled out the ABS sensor from the rear diff and found a piece of metal megnetized to it. Removed it and things worked. New mystery about the metal though.....
Eventually I had to redo what the mechanic fixed with the wire connection and I replace the entire harness. Removed it entirely and soldered a cable in between.
SOURCE: F1 Relay circuit failure
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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