Installing repair kit for hear acuator on 2006 equinox. ready to slide new part on cut shaft but seems to small around

If its the metal part of the feul line cut out one end and about a inch on other cut with grinder so its a clean cut and get a rubber hose gots to be feul line hose make it half inch longer on both side get 2 hose clamps small and put the feul line on with hose clamp on each end

it can be diferent things but the first thing u have to check is the drive shaft also u can check for a bad struts or a bad ball joints i need more specific imfo that way i can help you better

YOU CAN GET A BOOT REPAIR KIT OR A ZIP BOOT.DO NOT LIKE ZIP BOOT,DOESNT WORK . BEST TO GET A REMANUFACTURED AXLE AND REPLACE AS A UNIT,DOESNT COST MUCH MORE AND WIL WORK WITH A WARRANTY.TAKE OFF WHEEL,LOOSEN AXLE NUT,TAKE OFF LOWER BALL JOINT,POP AXLE WITH HAMMER TO DRIVE AVLE OUT OF BEARING A LITTLE WAYS THEN PUILL UP ON STRUT ASSEMBLY TO GET AXLE ALL THE WAY OUT OF BEARING/HUB ASSEMBLT. POP OUT AXLE ANT HE SLIDE IN THE NEW UNIT

There is a clip on the pumpkin (front diff) that the 4wd cable connects to that is common to break. Easy fix, inspect the cable where it connects to the pumpkin and repair any damages found.

Thank you for using fixya and keep us posted.

CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.

1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
   
2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
   boot from the joint outer race.
   
3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
   outer race (the body of the joint).
   
4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
   assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
   
5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
   splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
   
6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
   to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
   of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.

1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
   is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
   inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
   shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
   together. Insert the balls into the cage.
   
2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
   specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
   
3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
   bands is correct.
   
4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
   
2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
   that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
   
3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
   halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
   
4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
   shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
   damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:

1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
   vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
   damper, if used, in the correct order.
   
2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
   
3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
   supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
   being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
   grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
   
4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
   distance between boot bands is correct.
   
5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
   cable.

Check the CV-boot for wear









Removing the outer band from the CV-boot









Removing the inner band from the CV-boot









Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing









Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot









Removing the CV-joint housing assembly









Removing the CV-joint









Inspecting the CV-joint housing









Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring









Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear









CV-joint snap ring (typical)









Removing the CV-joint assembly









Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring









Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)

Take off your wheel, and then you will see the axle, in the center of the axle there is a metal cap, using a flat head screwdriver remove remove the cap. This should expose a greasy castle nut and cotter key (looks like a regular nut with grooves cut in it so a metal rod (cotter) can slide though the nut and the axle shaft so the nut dont vibrate loose) take the nut and cotter off, behind that is a washer (big one) remove the washer to expose the berring-assembly is in reverse

acuator at transfer case or at frt diff if acuator is moving then axles to wheels should be turning and you may have a hub locking problem. if axles to wheels dont turn then the acuator tofront diff is no good not strong enough or bent shaft on acuator, some of these use a small shaft in front of actuator also make sure if this truck use this shaft check it for wear, lift truck remove actuator push inside arm in see if wheels spin turn frt shaft while holding arm in wheel should turn is they do, replace actuator, if they dont turn then diff problem,

If you email me I can email you the pics for this task....too many to post here. Email me at [email protected].


CV-Joints Overhaul These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of the metal retainer bands.
The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint (T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).
NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or clean and repack using a new boot kit.
The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early joint failure.
NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease other than that supplied with the kit.
Double Offset Joint To Remove:
NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
3. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the boot from the joint outer race.
4. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the outer race (the body of the joint).
5. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
6. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
7. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off of the shaft at this time.

To Install:
NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.

1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them together. Insert the balls into the cage.
2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot bands is correct.
4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the halfshaft.
4. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s) that will be removed.
5. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
6. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the halfshaft. CAUTION
   Do not disassemble the spider, use care in handling.
   
7. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed.
8. Remove the dynamic damper, (if used).
9. Remove the boots from the shaft.

To Install:

1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed.
2. Wrap vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and damper, (if used), in the correct order.
3. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft.
   • Install the snap ring
4. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease.
   • Often the grease supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot
     1. Keep grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used)
5. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position.
   • Make sure distance between boot bands is correct
6. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.
7. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil

Hiya...the factory-installed keyless remote control are installed in most Equinoxes IF SO equipped with this option that year.
However, it's difficult to get "true factory-installed" keyless feature in your Equinox ....but new 2008-2009 Equinoxes built this year now comes with standard keyless remote and yes, new option is remote STARTER feature (that option is identified by a black wire found inside the rear-right quarter window with thin metal line surrounding that interior window to receive signal from remote starter fob)

At least you can find after-market keyless remote control at your local retail store.