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I have a 1993 olds cutlass supreme with a v6 3100 engine. the car is not firing. i replaced the crank censor and timing belt, should i try replacing the cam censor next, or is there something else i should try?
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Your Cutlass is either the 3.1 V6 or the 3400 Dual Overhead 24 valve V6...each motor is clearly marked on top of the engine plenum. If you have not changed the plugs yet...I recomend you do that at the same time...you can purchase inexpensive replacement wires with a limited lifetime warranty...be sure to compare. No special tools needed to switch out the plug wires...I highly recomend using plug wire boot lube grease to assure good clean water proof contact...also helps ease od service later as needed. The lube is only a couple of bucks...Be sure to ask the parts person the ignition firing order...this will help to confirm proper installation...Remove only one wire at a time...this insures you maintain the current firing order...remove and replace only ONE wire at a time...disconnect from the plug, then trace to the coil pack, and disconnect...replace with similar length wire using lube grease on both end connections...Plug wires and plugs should be replaced on your Cutlass OBD I motor by 100,000 miles...they can wear out and leak or misfire prior to that...Your motor is also sensitive to a clean Idle Air Control valve...about $35. or try to clean the old one and mounting hole with injector spray cleaner and wipe out...Also check for any vacumn leaks while changing wires...the old rubber lines and connections crack and leak with age...The Cutlass is usally a reliable long term car...Good luck with yours. Hope this helps.
I had a 97' olds with the same engine and had that exact same problem at around 130,000 miles. It could be your timing belt if you have not had it changed or you could try the crank sensor. I got lucky and only had to replace the sensor which is considerably cheaper than paying for the labor on a timing belt change.
Capacity is 5 qts. without filter change. Add extra oil when replacing filter. I suggest adding in increments of 1/4 qt. (4oz.)at a time until "full" is indicated on the dipstick.
You will need to change the crank position sensor first and see if it corrects the problem. It is located behind the engine near the firewall. It's a bit tricky to get to it, you would need to rotate the engine forward then look under the exhaust manifold and under the cylinder closest to the drivers side. Use a 10 mm deep socket to loosen bolt. After replacement and it is still stalling then you will need to replace the ECM (vehicle computer). If it turns out to be the computer, go to your local junkyard to get an inexpensive replacement Click on the link below to view the CPS, it is around $22
My 89 olds cutlass did the same thing....Shop fixed her, they replaced the knock sensor....I also had the fuel filter replaced, they sold me a can of MG injector cleaner too..Out on the highway the service engine light would come on and she would cut out under a load....Then she would crank but not start ( she would start eventually).....Runs great now....bill was $250
Its not the packs, I am pretty sure that is the distributor in the engine, (the one the coil pack hooks up to) I thought I knew my stuff until a 15 year old neighbor kid came and fixed my sundance that way, that or its a loose battery wire. hope this helps, have a nice day, and drive that thing like it was meant to be driven!
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