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Sherri Walker Posted on Jan 27, 2018
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Cannot get a 1963 Studebaker Avanti to crank. It will turn over but won't crank. Already replaced plugs, battery, fuel lines etc it did start before the new battery but it has not started since.

1 Answer

old fart58

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  • Expert 163 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2018
old fart58
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Joined: Jun 26, 2009
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Hard to say. If the ignition key were left on by mistake for a time and drained the battery it would result in burnt breaker points. Check for spark. Remove a spark plug cable and use one of the old plugs inserted in the cable end. Ground the plug body to the engine block and have someone try a startup, observe spark plug gap for spark. No spark, problem found. Go to breaker points. May be a weak spark(yellow color) and need to replace points and condenser anyways.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2010

SOURCE: 1987 ford escort 1.9l wagon auto driving just died

wont turn over but battery has a charge...hear a tick, tick, tick, sound

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Randy Ohler

  • 14585 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2011

SOURCE: I just had my wifes

Check the fuel pressure and fuel regulator. You can have fuel, but not enough pressure to push threw the injectors.

bendarden

Ben Darden

  • 984 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2011

SOURCE: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire,

Make the FixYa experience better for everyone by voting.

Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.

As you evaluate my advice and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices.
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. However, you must keep in mind that I can only evaluate and suggest based on the information that you provide.

Subject: Vehicle will not start
Your description of the problem: 1988 nissan 300zx won't start it gets fire, and fuel, cranks but won't start it has been sitting up for couple years but would't start is why I purchased the car I replaced the plugs, previous owner said he thought it was a fuel problem, but pump works, new f/filter new fuel rail, hose and clamps .

Discussion: Late model vehicles are highly computer controlled to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and improve consumer comfort. The various control systems in vehicles are interrelated and controlled by multiple computers that constantly monitor vehicle performance through a myriad of sensors located throughout the vehicle. Based on information received, the computers adjust the vehicle performance through a series of valves, switches and motors. You must use a scanner to unlock the information stored in your car's computer. Your 300Z is OBD -1 compliant.

A Scan Tool can be used to read and erase trouble codes, display, record and play back LIVE diagnostic data and perform other tests allowed by the vehicle maker. Scan tools that cover vehicles 1982 to present are available at your local auto supply dealer.

You don't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A dealer or your local mechanic will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will sell you one for less than $30. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong". All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a camshaft position sensor or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Step 1.
Start with the pre-check:


Do a Thorough Visual Inspection
Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.
• Has the vehicle been serviced
recently? Sometimes things get
reconnected in the wrong place, or
not at all.
• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect hoses
and wiring which may be difficult to
see due to location.
• Inspect the air cleaner and
ductwork for defects.
• Check sensors and actuators for
damage.
• Inspect ignition wires for:
- Damaged terminals.
- Split or cracked spark plug boots
- Splits, cuts or breaks in the ignition
wires and insulation.
• Inspect all vacuum hoses for:
- Correct routing. Refer to vehicle
service manual, or Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI)
decal located in the engine compartment.
- Pinches and kinks.
- Splits, cuts or breaks.
• Inspect wiring for:
- Contact with sharp edges.
- Contact with hot surfaces, such as
exhaust manifolds.
- Pinched, burned or chafed insulation.
- Proper routing and connections.
• Check electrical connectors for:
- Corrosion on pins.
- Bent or damaged pins.
- Contacts not properly seated in
housing.
- Bad wire crimps to terminals
-Lastly, check for water in the fuel. Pour in a can of Heet and a bottle of injector cleaner.

Step 2.
Instructions:

Check the entire fuel delivery system.

  • Relieve system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable and loosen the gas cap to let pressure drain from the system. Attach a dual tube pressure gauge to the test port and drain fuel into an approved container.
  • Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum hose. Check for fuel in the line. If there is fuel present in the line, the fuel delivery problem is likely caused by a faulty fuel pump pressure regulator. If there is no fuel in the line, reattach the vacuum hose and continue with the fuel delivery diagnostic.
  • Twist off the fuel pressure test port cap and attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve if one is not already connected. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the first position. Do not start the engine.
  • Check the pressure gauge. It needs to register between 45 and 48 psi. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the gauge again. It needs to register approximately 46 psi. Leave the engine on and remove the vacuum hose. Check the gauge one last time. It needs to register approximately 50 psi. Pressure that's too high indicates a malfunctioning pressure regulator. Low pressure indicates a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced.
  • Cut the engine off, relieve system pressure again and remove the negative battery cable.
  • Clean the fuel filter inlet with compressed air to remove any dirt that might come loose and contaminate the fuel supply as you remove the fuel filter. Pull the filter out at the male filter fitting and disconnect the remaining connections to the filter. Remove the filter.
  • Examine the filter for clogs and replace it if necessary. If there are no clogs, the fuel delivery problem is probably caused by a breakdown in the fuel pump itself.


DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY ANYTHING YET! This was only the opening act.

All of the above systems are monitored by the Engine Control Module/ Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong. Perform the scan diagnostic now.

Be guided by the scan diagnosis and the problem should be fixed.

Start the car and perform another scan. The reason we rescan and repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.

All the best,

Ben

tayjoejoe

Joe Taylor

  • 2229 Answers
  • Posted on May 17, 2012

SOURCE: 2003 cavalier cars turns over but won't start, changed plugs, coil pack, map sensor, starter, crank sensor, oxygen sensor, fuel pump works help?

Maybe the antitheft system. Read thru this link

http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Anonymous

  • 26 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 23, 2012

SOURCE: 2002 Chevy impala won't start

it could be multiple things, like .spark plugs. air filters. computers. fuel filters, and all kinds of different things

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1helpful
1answer

I have a 1963 Avanti, replacing belts on engine, do not have diagram for installation, It has AC, 289cu, 3 belts, cut old ones off, did not draw location of them , my fault

Studebaker Avanti !!!!! first disk brake car USA 63'
built on lark chassis, (many help on engine parts this fact)

wow super rare classic car, never seen here. 1200 made. only.!
google it?
belts come in vast sizes so best is not cut them, but take them in tact to a car parts store and they measure them up./
and with AC is one more belt size
so rare the online SM only list LARK
NEXT TIME ,NO CUTS, AND USE CAMERA
LEARN THAT GOOGLE FINDS NO PHOTOS OF 63 ENGINES EASY
OR AT ALL.
But I see some
the main pulley on engine Damper crank pully is multi grove kind
and front goes to fan/pump , looking from the top see what aligns to the below.
but AC is and After market kit put on there right? nah X84 AC options
$4400 buck new.
for sure , learn to align all belts looking top down to main bottom pulley groves back then I did that, on cars with lost belt or 2.
see each accessory to mid range, tension first. (arc)
then used rope 1/2" to make fake belt to get circumference
or t using old cut belt Now lost can't get width.?

I measure the pulley grove width, and buy up to 3 belts.
3 guessing circum. yes ive done this and is a pain, lost belts are
and service manuals lost or can buy them.
guess min, avg or max per listings of belts Circum.
then return the 2 wrong ones,
the do the next accessory and repeat till done.
or join a real Avanti forum , of real owners.
or find a real service manual googling like mad.
I found an onllin SM but has no accessory pages, sad face.
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Saturn l300 will turn over but won’t start

My thought is to check the basics, if you haven't already? Make sure battery has a full charge and connections all good. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes.
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Car won't start...

CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR BY REMOVING VACUUM LINE AND LOOK FOR FUEL.
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Car won't start after replacing battery

have someone check the fuel pump relay ,what type of car is it
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Truck wont crank. we have put new distributor cap, rotor button, coil pack, plugs, wires, and fuel pump. we also checked our firing order.

you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
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Engine turns over, but will not start.

Check the fuel pump for pressure by removing the send line from the fuel filter and ranking the car. Place the line in an empty 2 liter soda bottle and have a friend crank the engine a couple of times to see if the pump sends fuel. If not, replace the fuel pump an replace the filter since you will have a line removed already.
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Cranks but won't start

1. cranking is "turning over". Starting is what it is not doing. Did you check for spark at plugs when cranking? Why did you change battery?
If fuel line is frozen, generally freeze takes place in the line. Anything you add to tank will not help at this point. (you can heat line with a hair dryer etc (no torches) Most fuels today contain some alcohol so antifreeze for fuel is pretty much redundant. If you have been cranking it fore some time, it would be a good idea to check spark plugs to make sure they are still dry and not fuel fouled... Liquid gasoline does not burn... only fumes ignite. In cold weather, fuel does not vaporize properly and can easily foul plugs.
0helpful
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1988 Avanti Convertible

You may have already found this site:

http://theavanti.com/parts.htm

But if not, it seems a good place to start.

I empathize with your plight; I have a Bertone '87 X1/9, my favorite car of all time but have been fortunate in finding a low-mileage parts car in case I need any.
I grew up in original Avanti-land; South Bend, IN.
Not finding what you are looking for?

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