My brakes slows my 2007 chevy equinox after driving it for 5 or 10 minutes. I have put on new brake calipers in the front and new brake lines. I have bled the brake lines in the front .

Because the vehicle has ABS and air in it, it must be bled from the caliper upwards using a pressurized bleeding bottle.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bleeding.htm

Some also need a scan tool according to some of the articles

This is specific to the Equinox

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/c5bdh-2012-chevy-equinox-soft-peddle-i-ve-replaced.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Chevrolet+Equinox%2C+bleeding+brake+lines

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The problem is in the hydraulic control valve of the ABS system

There are many possible factors including incorrect parts, defective rotor - pads - actuator, improperly bled front brake line, improper maintenance practice during last service. Best to take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic as soon as possible for your and others safety. Tow if you feel it is unsafe to drive that distance. Best of luck.

Your vehicle should have rear drum brakes...They have to be adjusted manually for correct adjustment...People say they self adjust but it is not good enough....by adjusting the rear it will decrease the pressure on the front and deliver equal braking...This will help eliminate caliper pressure overload....I'm not saying that is your caliper problem but it is insult to injury and will save the life of front brakes.....Now your caliper problem..FYI..A rule of thumb is anytime you change a caliper you should always replace both calipers to have identical braking pressure".The same with brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders.....The caliper that froze in the first place got hot and boiled the brake fluid and quite possibly partially collapsed the caliper brake line/hose inside as Clint and Frank stated....I am going to guess that the first caliper froze under normal conditions however got hot enough to internally damage the caliper line/hose...Then you may think of the pressure regulator being bad in which case could be a problem......So this is what you do".Since we know the left front caliper line/hose has been exposed to heat it needs to be replaced anyway...also the fluid was boiled and it needs to be changed / bled...The new caliper that froze should be ok unless it was bad off the shelf which is rare but possible."..Change the line/hose,bleed the brake system and let the mechanic test drive before you pay and leave..The mechanic will know before driving if the new caliper that froze is bad or not by rotating the wheel...This is the cheapest way...And you will know if the pressure regulator is bad or not just by bleeding system........I hope this helps....."Brooks/Metalpoet....."....

sound like you have a brake caliper that has went defective.need to replace this item and should take care of the problem.because when you applied pressure to the brakes the brake caliper started to close so the brakes could tighten against the brake rotor to slow vehicle down and some times these calipers will stick down holding pressure on the wheel disc and cause the wheel to still have the brakes holding down the brake shoes against it not letting pressure to release from rotor and this is what caused it to stay locked up its not releasing to allow to allow wheel to spin free.best bet is to replace the brake caliper.you can pick one up at parts place or local junk yard and are not highly expensive but I would go with new one if possible. to insure this does not happen again this is very dangerous could cause you to have a accident so I would get fixed before driving again.safety first .hope this helps you out so I would replace the brake caliper and also put a new set of brake shoes on it.its not hard to put on easily fixed. thanks 10 zacks

Completely flush brake lines there should never be gear oil in brake reservoir

It may be a bad rubber brake line that connects to that caliper, preventing brake fluid from exiting the caliper. Older rubber brake lines can collapse internally and prevent fluid passing through. If the rubber feels spongy, it needs replacing.

Do you know which one is holding on? I would if it has flexible hoses crimp off the rears with proper brake line crimps & drive but carfully as your brake function will be reduced. If it dosn't happen you know the problem lies in the rear if not you know its in the front. If in front uncrimp the rears & crimp 1 front drive & see what happens but with only 1 crimped the car will want to pull sideways under brakes if problem remains you know it is the other side, repeat with other side to make sure. This should let you know where the fault is if the fault remains its probably not any of the callipers or drums.

2010-2017 Equinox

FRONT brake caliper BRACKET bolts Torque is 140 FT/LB and Caliper to the bracket is only 20 FT/LB.

REAR brake caliper BRACKET bolts Torque is 92 FT/LB and Caliper to the bracket is 20 FT/LB.

Remember rear bracket torque is different so don't forget as many DIY mechs snap that rear bracket bolt.

Use Thread Lock on caliper BRACKET Bolts.

THERE IS A BLEEDER NUT ON EACH CALIPER,ONE PERSON BLEEDS AND THE OTHER PUMPS THE BRAKE PEDAL