My H2 2003 hard or take time to shift when running to 35+ MPH
My H2 2003 won't shift when running to 35 miles per hour. I have to control the gas pedal into low to shift automatically in high gears in high speed. Mostly it occurred this when I am in the freeway running more than 40mph, my rpm will go high before it shift or I have to control it to shift. My h2 is fine when I drive below 30mph easier in shifting in low gears and low speed.
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Avoid idling. While idling, your car gets exactly 0 miles per gallon while starting the car uses the same amount as idling for 6 seconds. Park your car and go into the restaurant rather than idling in the drive-through. Idling with the air conditioning on also uses extra fuel. Also, avoid going so fast that you have to brake for someone. Whenever you brake, you waste the gas it took to get going that fast.
Drive at a consistent speed. Avoid quick acceleration and hard braking. Cruise control will keep you at a constant speed, even when going up and down hills.
Avoid stops. If approaching a red light, see if you can slow down enough to avoid having to actually stop (because you reach the light after it is green). Speeding up from 5 or 10 miles per hour will be easier on the gas than starting from full stop.
Anticipate the stop signs and lights. Look far ahead; get to know your usual routes. You can let up on the gas earlier. Coasting to a stop will save the gasoline you would otherwise use maintaining your speed longer. If it just gets you to the end of a line of cars at a red light or a stop sign a few seconds later, it won't add any time to your trip. Ditto for coasting to lose speed before a highway off-ramp: if it means you catch up with that truck halfway around the curve instead of at the beginning, you haven't lost any time. In many cities, if you know the streets well, you can time the lights and maintain the appropriate speed to hit all green lights. Usually this is about 35 to 40 MPH.
Slow down. Air resistance goes up as the square of velocity. The power consumed to overcome that air resistance goes up as the cube of the velocity. Rolling resistance is the dominant force below about 40 mph. Above that, every mph costs you mileage. Go as slow as traffic and your schedule will allow. Drive under 60-65 since air grows exponentially denser, in the aerodynamic sense, the faster we drive. To be precise, the most efficient speed is your car's minimum speed in it's highest gear, since this provides the best "speed per RPM" ratio. This is usually about 45 to 55 miles per hour.
Use A/C only on the highway. At lower speeds, open the windows. This increased the drag and reduces fuel efficiency, but not as much as the AC at low speeds (35-40 mph). The air con - when used a lot - is known to use up about 8% of the fuel you put into your car.
It always starts out in first, it's a 3 speed automatic, that's what automatics do. they start out in first and at about 15-20 miles per hour , they shift to second gear, and when the speed is about 35-45 MPH, the transmission automatically shifts into third gear, or Drive.
Bigger automatics have 4 or more speeds. Till recently, 4 speeds were the norm, and fourth gear was often dubbed Overdrive, as it allowed the engine to run slower in 4th gear, than it had to maintain speed in 3rd gear, drive. It's good, it increases your mileage per gallon of gas, so you save that way, but like all things more complicated, they cost more to fix when something goes wrong.
I have the same problem..but mine has a hard time getting up to 55 ..it also does the hard shift thing and will not excelerate going up any kind of hill.I've already replaced the input..output speed censor's and had a tune up...it has about 116,500 miles on it and i dont know if its the transmission causing the problems.
Your going to have to get the ECM scanned, Auto Zone scan's for free and most garage now will scan for $10.00 to $15.00 since they all have the scanners now and need the business.
You could have a Vehicle Velocity Sensor (V V S) going bad or the wire harness it self. The V.V.S tells the ECM how fast the drive shaft is rotating and calculate's what gear it should be in relative with the engine speed and throttle position, and transmission fluid pressure.
Regardless you need the Blazer scanned to pin point why your transmission is shifting the way it is. Could be as simple as time for transmission oil and filter change for $125.00 or a loose wire harness.
Check your transmission fluid and try not to run the blazer to hard, to replace the transmission start at $1,900.00 for a rebuilt.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted
chrysler van transmission usally only last 70,000 miles you were lucky the problem is the radiator is to small to cool the transmission fluid properly have trans rebuilt put after market trans cooler on & you should not have any more problems
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