My rmote start doesn't sound the horn or turn on the parking lights when vehicle is running. Is this something that can be programmed by myself?

SOURCE: Can I stop my horn from sounding when I lock my 2009 Accord

You might can have the dealer program it not to honk, but its just the way the keyless entry works. I've owned 2 accords--an 06 and 08--and both of them honk the horn when the lock button is pressed twice. Pressing the button once will secure the car and arm the alarm. So once click is all you really need. And no your alarm is not malfunctioning.

SOURCE: The F11(interior cabin lights) circuit

Check the rear hatch / door opening for a crimped or smashed wire in the hinge area. Check each door for same. The doors have courtesy lights and a wire can be smashed in the seal area. Next check any of the cig lighters or power outlets for user devices, coins or ink pins can blow fuses. They could be on the same fuse. Last check each light bulb for broken bulbs or any loose wires in the sockets .

SOURCE: 2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side

The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

SOURCE: The light work on the

this sounds like a low battery problem ... the horn and lights do not take much energy to turn on, but starting the engine takes a lot of power. Try jumping the Jeep with another car, or a battery jump pack (available at any auto-parts store). If the engine kicks over and starts, then leave your Jeep running in park for about 15 minutes. After 15 minutes of running, turn the Jeep off and then try to start it again with no jump -- if it starts, you had a low battery, but the issue is probably solved (running the engine recharges the battery). If, after you have had the car running for 15 minutes and turn it off, it does not start on its own, you probably need a new battery (and you should have your electrical system checked as you might have a bad alternator that is not charging your battery). Sears Auto Canter has a great piece of equipment that can test your battery, and your entire electrical system (including the alternator) in just a few minutes. I recommend that you take your Jeep to a Sears Auto Center and have it checked, whether or not the jump worked because their system can make sure that there is not a slow drain on the battery (due to a loose connection or something like that) which would cause you to have the same problem again.

Testimonial: "Thanks for your advise I will give it a try and get back to you "

SOURCE: Horn honks when wheel is turned

year? model? does it have an air bag in the steering wheel? most likely the horn switch is bad