Having the same issue since replacing the main rear brake line (the brake line from the master cylinder to the rear hydraulic block, which branches off to each rear wheel. Last week the pedal hit the floor and I replaced one of the rear brake lines. Then a few days later the same thing happened again, this time the main line to the rear was leaking. Replaced this, and now getting no leaks, but the brakes don't come on until the pedal is basically on the floor.
Bled off the brakes and there's fluid everywhere from front to back at all connections, no air, but my pedal travel is still to the floor before any brakes come on. Also, no leaks anymore, and the master cylinder reservoir is full. Only thing is that about 6 months ago we replaced the master cyl and all was well, but there are 2 dump valves on my truck just underneath this, and one was stuck. any ideas?
Do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
May I ask you a question?, before you replace the main rear brake line your brakes were working good?, 'cause if your are saying all connections and lines are fine, then you have to start cheking your rear and front brake pads as well as your front calipers and rear wheel cylinder for proper working,last thing you have to check is the brake booster for no air leaks and check it's working good, good luck.
I have a 1995 chevy c1500 pickup nd the brake pedal gets stuck it has new brakes and everything but it still doesnt work
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Hey thanks guys; I'm sure there's no air in the master cylinder or in the lines, but I'll try these procedures as well...
I also found some more information on my braking system, the RWAL (early type of ABS on the rear wheels only) --> I'm thinking that the problem is a dirty/faulty combination valve (isolation/dump valve are one unit on GM vehicles in those years) -- check out this site:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelsey...
Thanks again!
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