Tube burning wont. however before nice like burning. hardship where?

Apart from being a 30 year old gas guzzler with 500,000 miles on it :>D

There are three situations where emissions requirements may temporarily be extended or waived:

1. Emissions Extension - for vehicles that are temporarily located out-of-state
2. Hardship Waiver - for vehicles that have recently failed an emissions test and the owner is unable to obtain necessary repairs due to a financial hardship
3. Repair Waiver - for vehicles that have failed an emissions test after undergoing emissions-related repairs.

videos

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The rubber air tube that connects the air filter box to the engine is likely loose, grab it and check that is firmly attached both ends.
Also check the recall to replace the tube has been done: https://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin/#/#/Home

This are of the site is for automotive questions

Repost in some other area of the site

a great fail, only parked it fails, far better than opposite.?
the core, the heater core must be hot , or it wont work.
so there can only be these fails (fan works)
1: core blockage, (might work at fast rpm, and not slow)
ever do a 2year full flush? a full coolant service ?
1a; Put hands on core tubes. both hot>? (IR gun)
if one is cold?, then it is and is blocked. (find cause)
if both are hot ?, I use a dirt cheap IR pypro gun, point and shoot $15?
both hot is good. it has flow, if restricted, 1 will be way cooler.
i see the ,an no burned fingers.
so if the 2 tubes to the core are hot say about 170f?
then the dampers are closed
if closed its bad controls.
with my heater on full (all new parts) i get 10 degree drop
in temperatures at the 2 core tubes. this drop is the heat used
for the cab. see?


easy peasy cheezy?

Pull the crown and the two crown supports, scrape and vacuum the residual ash on the bottom and around the starter coil. Pull the and turn the oil feed tube scraper back out of the way. Reach inside the tube with a screwdriver and scrape out the residue until as clean as posssible. Exercise the fuel tube rod several times until there is no scraping sound. Vacuum the interior and replace the parts (Do not clean the crown).

recommend a haynes manual for this job what u save is time & hardship for the cost!!!!!

Check ALL Fusable Linke One of them IS BURNED OUT

this has nothing to do with the coolant tube ,, check for spark at the cap , Not the plug , if you have no spark at the cap ( the plug wires first then try the coil wire ) then remove the cap check the inside of it for any cracks or burned contacts if not, you could have knocked a wire off the coil itself as I did the same thing on our 950,, which didn't allow spark to get to the cap itself ,,

had same problem. neons are bad for the gas filler tube rusting out. there has to be pressure in the tank for the car to run.check and see if yours is rusted out or hole in it somewhere.

Dipstick tube on the right hand side rear of engine, near the bulkhead. Just dip it like you would the engine. And the nice tricky bit, you need to put hte fluid down that little tube! A real pain, use a small funnel and be patient. DO NOT overfill - this can be very bad for an auto transmission. Any need to refill shows a leak, they don't burn oil like an engine does. I suggest you look for leaks if it does need fluid. If you are having rough shifts and no leaks, likely the brake bands need adjusting - a relatively simple job for an auto transmission specialist.