SOURCE: cooling fans not working on 1995 camaro z28
you have a burnt fan relay...if it were my car i ould run a jumper to the fuse panel so that when you turn the key on the fan will also come on and run.its not hard to do and it will stop the car from overheating
SOURCE: Cooling fan direction??
Yes, Massive air flow from the first fan is causing air to be brought in from not only the front of the radiator but from the fan right next to it causing reverse air flow through the fan. This intern can cause less dirrect airflow through the radiator. Also, the recirculation of hot air (from the first fan) into the second fan, across the radiator and back to the first fan can cause the vehicle to run hotter. Wile the car is moving there is enough air pressure from the outside of the vehicle to flow directly through the radiator with little fan assistance needed. If you have the engine running and and turn on the a/c, you should hear the fan change speed or even see the second one turn on (If the fan is working), there is no delay. You might have a bad relay and good fan, as there is a separate relay that activates this same fan for the a/c.
SOURCE: my 2004 grd prix gtp is hot when still and cools off when driving
probrally the thermostat or water pump
SOURCE: I have a 1996 Firebird 3800 series II, V6, I have
Does the other one come on when you turn on the a/c? What is the problem? Overheats?
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SOURCE: I have a 1995 chevy caprice classic and it keeps
Your cooling fan relays are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). What you are unplugging is probably the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT). The ECM will default to "fans on" if it loses the circuit to the ECT. (It loses it when you unplug it) This is why the fans come on when you unplug the connector. The engine might be overheating because the ECT may be malfunctioning and "lying" to the computer about what the actual engine temperature is. If this is the case, the ECM is not turning the fans on because it doesn't "think" it is hot enough to need them. Then again, you could have a faulty temperature gauge that is making you think the engine is overheating when it is not. (If it is boiling over, then it is OBVIOUSLY overheating and you can just disregard that last statement.)
Anyway, the only way to properly diagnose the cooling system on your vehicle is to access the live engine data and look to see what temperature the ECM is seing while you take an actual reading with an infrared thermometer or a pyrometer and compare the two. Yhe thermometer or prometer reading should be within about 5 degrees of what the ECM "thinks" the temperature is. If there is a larger error than this then the coolant temp sensor should be replaced. If the reading is within this range and the temperatur gauge reads hot when it is not, then the gauge should be replaced.
Since the fans come on when you unplug the sensor, you know that all the fan circuits are working and the ECM is capable of controlling them, so it almost has to be a computer INPUT problem, not an OUTPUT problem.
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Hi Gwinyilitshe Disane, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Did you replace the fan? and does the fan have a heat sensor so it knows when to turn on and off
I agree with Richard and Tracy both.
I need year--make--model to look up more info.
Is the engine overheating? On a fully warmed up engine, how hot does it get in degrees F? Some makes and models, the radiator fan won't come on till about 220 degree? Any applicable trouble codes?
Some makes and models if you turn on the ac, the fan will run. There is also the cts, where applicable. Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.
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