How to replace the water pump in my '99 Volvo S80non turbo engine?

SOURCE: How to replace water pump on 2000 volkswagon

The following steps need to be taken to remove the pump.

1. Remove the ribbed belt. Compress the tensioner and remove the belt. Remove the ribbed belt tensioner.

2. Remove the upper timing belt cover.

3. Align your timing belt marks. The following pictures are for the cam timing mark, the flywheel timing mark for an automatic, flywheel timing for a manual and the marks on the harmonic balancer.

4. loosen the timing belt. There is a 13mm head nut that keeps the tensioner in place. Loosen this nut and turn the tensioner clockwise to get come slack in the belt. You are going to need a tool to get tension back on the belt. I use the tool pictured (picture of how to tension the belt) but know of people using snap ring pliers to rotate the tensioner.

5. Slip the timing belt off of the cam drive sprocket and off of the water pump.

6. Remove the water pump retaining bolts pictured and remove the water pump. The pump can often be stuck in place. A screwdriver carefully used can help in getting the pump

7. Moisten the o-ring with coolant before installing the new pump. Install the new pump.

8. Install the belt and tension as shown in the picture attached above. Turn the engine over by hand through a full revolution of the cam gear. Re-check the timing marks. The marks will often be off, don't be discouraged by this, it happens to everyone. If the marks are off loosen the belt and slip it the amount of teeth needed to align the marks.

9. Install the items taken off during the removal of the pump, fill the system with coolant and start the engine. The system will pretty much bleed itself out as it reaches operating temperature.

SOURCE: 99 Volvo S80 water pump replacement

if this helps.. I had the 1998 model S70. the water pump was driven by the timing belt. you had to take the timing belt off just to replace the water pump. it was just a simple bolt on replacement. the only difficult issue is resetting the hydraulic tensioner on the timing belt. the hydraulic tensioner has to be completely taken off and compressed VERY SLOWLY in a vise. then insert a very hard drill bit or (special volvo tool) into a keeper hole, reinstall hydraulic tensioner onto car and reinstall timing belt.very quickly remove drill bit from keeper hole in tensioner and the tensioner snaps back out to put tension on belt. and you are done.

SOURCE: replacing water pump on 1989 volvo 240dl

I did not have any problem installing the water pump. It took about 2 hrs.
Just pay attention to how the old one is designed and comes off the block.

Tap out the tube from the water pump to the heater core and replace the gasket in place with a small amount of gasket sealer to hold it in place.

use a lever to raise the water pump to squeeze the larger O ring into place so you can start the first bolt and you'll be on your way to the finish line in no time.

This is not a job for your average home owner do it your selfer. a little more than basic machanics is sugested to do this one.

SOURCE: volvo s80. engine warning light

Something has been detected by your engine management computer. The next step is to pull the error codes, with a scanner, and pursue those results.

SOURCE: fuel pump replacement

Make sure before you begin you obtain new fuel injection clamps, the tank to pump seal and a small length of fuel injection hose. Also obtain a new filter sock at the bottom of the pump. You may want to ask at the parts counter what size it is; but you'll need a small length of hose regardless of condition. Take extreme care working in the vincinity of gasoline, do not smoke or work near pilot lights or hot work lamps, as you will be releasing vapor that could ignite.
The fuel pump system on these models consists of a pump in the tank. Try to make sure the tank is nearly empty. On sedan models, peel back the trunk lining after removing the left side drain hose for the drip panels. It is secured by a clamp. Remove the 4 10mm bolts which secure the inspection cover.
Remove the negative battery cable.
On wagon models, fold the rear seat back assembly back, lift it up and remove the cover and carpet. Remove the inspection plate.
Either model of this vintage has the pump and sender assembly secured by a large plastic collar. Take care when removing it as it will be very tight and if you need to hammer at it it is best to use a length of PVC pipe and a mallet so that it won't crack if you hit it too hard. Remove the fuel hoses, taking care to avoid spillage by using old shop cloths to catch any residual fuel. Disconnect the electrical connections. Note that the old hose clamps may be rusted solid; carefully cut them off (do not attempt to use a saw or other tool as sparking may result) or soak them in a rust-removing compound. Carefully lift the pump and sending unit up and out of the tank, rotating through 90 degrees on the way out. Plug the open unions of the hoses to prevent debris from getting in.

These models contain the pump by way of a clip. Press up against the bottom of the spring loaded sender to release the clip and remove the pump. Some models may have an accumulator/damper at the top of the pump, it can be bypassed by a section of fuel injection hose and two clamps. You may have to solder on the connectors, sometimes they differ from year to year. Make sure you have the correct polarity when reconnecting the pump, or else it will run backwards. Install the new filter sock by pressing it on the bottom of the pump.

Installation is essentially a reversal of removal, noting to install a new tank to pump seal: Place the seal on the tank first, then place the pump assembly into the seal, as it is quite difficult to fit otherwise. Install new clamps wherever an old clamp was removed. Check carefully for leaks before driving the vehicle, and then install the inspection cover, trunk lining and drain hose.