Where do I connect back-up camera?

Connect the fuel pump to direct 12 volt power. That checks the pump.

Then test the relay

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+dodge+ram+2500+diesel+5.9+cummins+fuel+pump+relay+location

REM wire connects to the REM wire at the back of the aftermarket head unit. REM stands for remote and is typically a blue wire. Hope this helps, if you need further assistance I would be happy to help you. Please feel free to contact me at:

https://www.6ya.com/eugene_aa01c1a9fa4c2ed9

Well for one thing check the wiring connections. Then check to see if power is reaching the units . If not trace wiring back to pickup point of 12 volts.

the fuel pump relay has 4 leads. one is positive to battery, one is negative, ground, one is input voltage(on/off), and one is load (to the fuel pump +). Locate a 12 volt dc power source and connect the negative to the relay ground, and the positive to the relay input voltage lead. When 12 volts is applied to the input voltage, you should hear a click of the relay opening- additionally, if you have a multi-tester, you can also check for continuity (resistance, ohmage) by connecting the multi-tester to the 2 other leads. when the input voltage lead receives the 12 volts, you should hear a click AND the multitester should detect continuity in the circuit, and lose continuity when the 12 volt is removed from the input voltage lead.

What is the condition of the bulb socket? Contacts show signs of corrosion or overheating? Use a meter to find out if it's missing the 12 volts to the bulb or if the ground is missing (open/high resistance). With the fog lamps powered on, connect the black meter lead to a good solid ground on the body of the car. Touch the red meter lead to each contact in the socket which the bulb plugs into. One of the contacts should measure about 12 volts. If no 12 volts then you will need to check fuses and wiring to find the open circuit causing the no voltage situation. If you measure 12 volts, then you know you have power to the bulb. The problem will then be with the ground. Turn off the fog lamps, set the meter to measure resistance (ohms). Leave the black meter lead connected where it was. Connect the red meter lead to the contact in the bulb socket that you did NOT measure the 12 volts at. The meter should read no/low/minimal resistance. If you measure high resistance, then you will need to locate the corrosion or open/broken wire between the bulb connector and grounding point on the car. Good luck!

TAKE THE LEADS OFF AND CHECK FOR CORROSION, THE LARGE WIRE WILL HAVE 12 VOLTS AT ALL TIMES THE SMALLER ONE AKA IGNITER LEAD SHOULD HAVE 12 VOLTS WHEN THE KEY IS IN THE START POSITION... GOOD LUCK!

POWER GOING TO FUEL PUMP NOT TO FUEL PUMP.YOU CAN BUY AND REPLACE FUEL PUMP WIRES SEPERATELY.SOUND LIKE OLD WIRES HAS A OPEN CIRCUIT OR POOR GROUND.

Might want to pull the door panel off and test direct to the power window motor, to know which way to go with the diagnoses.

Good directions for removing the door panel are available at Muth ( signal mirror mfgr ). www.kwmuth.com Obviously only follow the directions to the point of getting the door panel off, no need to remove the mirrors. Just enter your truck info, and on the products page are the directions in PDF format.

The power window has a pig tail on it, that goes to the switch ( this is what it looks like remvoed ).


You can apply DC power to the pigtail towards the motor, 1 direction is up reverse polarity and the window should go down.

If the motor works this way, next is to meter the lead from the switch ( the other side of the pigtail ). One direction will have + 12 DC V, then the switch the other should show -12 DC V. If not, it would be time to test both switches.

Post back what you find with the motor test as a comment, and we can go from there.

I'm assuming you checked all the fuses -- they should be good, but in some cases, the right and left side windows may be on separate fuses.

The best procedure to find this problem is to start at the motor and work your way back to the power source (fuse box) testing each component to see if it is getting voltage.

If you fail to get 12 volts at either of these steps then the component leading to the one which failed to show 12 volts is bad.

First step is to test, with a multimeter, the motor leads for 12 volts when the window switch is engaged.

If you get 12 volts, there, then you should test the coil side of the window motor relay for 12 volts under same conditions.

If you get 12 volts there, test the window switch leads for 12 volts on both sides of the switch. You can also use the multimeter to test the window switch for continuity to see if it is passing current. If it fails the continuity test, replace the switch.

If you get 12 volts there, let me know and we'll take the next step.


I know this is complicated, but electrical troubleshooting is not simple.

More info, let me know.

Charlie