If the oil pump pulley mark looks like its a half tooth off will this cause any problems

fuel pumps ( diesel pumps) that are belt driven are spring loaded for the timing
you cannot remove and replace the belt as the pulley will move 1 tooth put of time
check where the timing mark on the pump pulley is when the crank and camshaft marks are on the spot and readjust to the mark where it should be

Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

Remove the t belt and reinstall it. Sounds like you were a half a tooth of on the cams wich would put you a tooth off on the crank. A lack of power makes sense with bad cam timing a s could,very well throw a miss. The misfire did not cause timing to jump

pull oil cap and look in valve cover and see if you can see valves moving chances are if it died when driving you may need to rehome your idle speed control try turning key on engine off for 10 sec on 10 sec off for 6 to trys and then give it about half throttle and try to start and see if it runs if it does see if it idles if it dont idle try the 10 on and off a few more times

if the belt is still on the dot on the camshaft should line up onthe 12 oclock if you look close there is a mark behind it the crank mark is about 10 or 11 oclock you will see the marks make sure no1 is at top dead center if all this is good look to the left buy the camshaft and there is another pully on the left under the camshaft this is the adjust pully to take the slack out lossen it and push it till the slack come out ok and yes it is a interference motor hope this helps

the marks for th cams are on the tin stuff behind the gears study it for a bit and nyoull see them the mark for the crank pully is on the case onthe bottom of the crank pully just of to one side

I had a 2.4 L engine in a caravan and replace the water pump that was controlled by the timing belt.
I was having the same problem, I called my bother in law to help. The crank shaft has to stay perfectly timing on the low end. The cam shaft marks are set exactly one half of a tooth apart. So when looking at it, The left side cam gear mark is a half a tooth higher then the right side. Then you have to try and slip on the belt . That is the easy part. When letting go of the timing belt tensioner the marks should line up perfectly across from each other. You have to take off the belt again and make sure you keep correct tension on the crank shaft so the mark is not moving when you are putting on the belt. There is a web site call Alldata.com. The web site cost a few dollars but it willl give you a detail instructions on how to time the engine with pictures to guide you. This is the same web site the pro's use.

I hope this has been helpful.

Oh, by the way you are lucky because the engine is not an interferrence type , so you can not damage the valves at least. Since you know the oil pump is out of time , check all the spark plugs again , they are probably oil soaked .

　
　
Timing Belt
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1.8L Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the timing belt covers.
Rotate the crankshaft and align the timing marks located on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub.
If the timing belt is to be reused, mark an arrow on the belt to indicate its rotational direction to enable correct re-installation.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner lockbolt and remove the timing belt.
To install:
Temporarily secure the timing belt tensioner in the far left position with the spring fully extended, then tighten the lockbolt.
Make sure the timing marks on the timing belt pulley (crankshaft sprocket) and the engine block (oil pump housing) are aligned.
Make sure the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate are aligned.
Install the timing belt.
Loosen the tensioner lockbolt. Using a suitable prying tool, position the timing belt tensioner so the timing belt is taut, then tighten the tensioner lockbolt.
Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise and align the timing belt pulley mark with the mark on the engine block.
Fig. 1: Timing marks are located on the camshaft pulleys as shown — 1.8L engines


　
Fig. 2: Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket (timing belt pulley) and oil pump timing marks are aligned — 1.8L engines


　
Fig. 3: Align the timing belt pulley mark with the tension set mark, at approximately the 10 o'clock position — 1.8L engines


　
Fig. 4: Check the timing belt deflection at the location shown — 1.8L engines

This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

Here is procedure for 1996:

Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
   

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
   

1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
   

1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
   

1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
   

1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
   

1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
   

1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
   

1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
   

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
   
2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
   

18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
   

Installation
NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

1. While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
   

1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
   

1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
   
2. 
   
   1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
      
1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
   
2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
   
   While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
   
1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
   

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt

1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.

1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
   

1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
   
1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
   
1. Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
   
1. Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
   
1. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
   
1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
   
1. Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
   
1. Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
   

I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.

Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.