Its good until i hit,60 mph or hit a nice size pot hole thank you kinda baffled what did i miss, where the holes were for the track bar were oval, i reemed them round and put a slightly larger bolt but too my surprise its still there thanks.
Wobble of the steering is a wheel alignment problem regardless of having an alignment done
if your vehicle has a "live"front axle ( not independent suspension) the alignment is fixed to toe in toe out settings by the manufacturer
however spring sag and pivot pin(king pin bearings)wear alters that setting
There are devices available on the market that can be fitted by accredited suspension service shops that allow the alteration of the castor and camber settings ( you have a castor wobble) so talk with these shops and get ideas of what you can do
if it has independent suspension these settings can be easily set and should be set to around 1 to 1 1/2 degrees positive with toe in set to around 1/8 ti 1/4 "
a point that most alignment shops don't mention is that the rear end has to be aligned first so that the steering wheels are in the same "track" otherwise the front alignment is a waste if time as the vehicle will tend to run sideways down the road
it is an extra cost but well wort the expense when chasing a problem
next point --if the cv or "U" joints are failing then they will tend to have hard stops when steering and this will set of steering problems
lastly , big wide tyres are hard to align because of the amount of rubber on the road and to get the comprise between correct alignment and reduced tyre wear is hard to achieve
thanks Mr Boyd I'll get right on it
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Wobble, the steering wheel shakes, Yes? my guess yes, this.
or your buddy on side walk goes, hey that tire are doing this....repeat his words, (up and down, side to side, or flex in camber way, or wiggle independently from each side,
or just one tire... now that would be a key fact.. there.
find a real suspension shop!
or find a tire shop that has the really good live on car balancing
system (tire) (balancing on car works best)
and it will shake and he will point to the loose part.
for sure.
there is no reason to guess here.
the Suspenision shop will check every part for loosness
and find it , if present. (its their skill sets that do that)
are these stock tires and rims
is car lifted or modified in any way from stock?
pretend we are blind, (are)
got new shocks,
there is no such thing as a perfect balanced tire. (good yes)
and bad shocks,
let that normal unbalance, go out of control.
2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.
3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.
4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.
5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.
6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.
7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.
8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.
9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.
10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem
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