At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you are talking about driving along on the highway, mashing the accelerator, and having the transmission drop down to the next lower gear, then that's correct. It's supposed to do that. All vehicles with a standard multi-gear transmission will do that. It allows the engine to operate at a higher speed. The faster the engine speed, generally the more horsepower it produces. It also changes the ratio of engine speed to wheel speed. The faster the engine is going in relationship to the tires, the more torque, or pulling power is applied at the wheel. This combination allows the vehicle to increase speed faster. If you're on the highway and need to pass someone, you don't want to take forever doing it. That becomes a safety issue. You will also see the same thing happen when pulling heavy loads or going up hills too. It gets the engine into an optimal operating zone to maximize horsepower and torque.
this is normal for the trans to downshift as the engine and trans are working together to handle the acceleration of your car and as your car's speed increases the trans will adjust again (EG: shift gears) this is more of a weight to acceleration sort of thing or rather weight to power sort of thing
How many miles on your trans fluid? Trans filter? Have you ever had your trans fluid power flushed/vacuumed out? Check local discount coupon books for a discount. Go to a transmission place have it flushed(costs a few bucks more) and ask about the transmission's performance. At least they can look at it, maybe adjust it, & you get a diagnoses for free. Good luck.
If it is under warranty, THEY NEED TO FIX IT! Never trust lazy salesman or dealer personal. Any how, it sounds like your clutch or trans is slipping and might have "grinder teeth" in trans... Last suggestion,flush trans fluid and add Lucas additive to oil
ok im shoure u checked youre fluids so then get youre sensors checked and then if its aoutomatic check youre kick down swicth if manual could be a problem with the clucht slave or the booster bleed them it may help
do you have any trans related trouble codes, this trans has electronic shift control so u may have a solenoid sticking or a valve body issue, has the fluid ever been changed along with the filter? this is due every 60,000 miles, this has cured the problem in many cases like yours, fluid wears out (friction modifiers) and can cause harsh shifts.
With normal acceleration the 1st to second shift point should be around 2500-3000 rpm. Most of your shifts under moderate acceleration will take place at this same point or when there a light load on the transmission. Under hard acceleration the RPMs will climp higher due to increased power needs and the computer will shift when less power is needed or the RPMs climb to an unsafe speed say5000-6000rpms (depending on where yours redlines). Also going up a steep hill will raise the RPMs higher and goind down a hill will cause a faster shift at lower RPMs. These can always be altered by an individual owner by adjusting shift points, using performance parts and if you have problems (low tranny fluid/trans issues). Your trans RPMS are fine and will vary depening on how your foot accelerates. The shift pattern should be the same every time you drive slow/medium/fast/, look for changes in those patterns you will also catch a problem early.
Attach a diagnostic computer to the leads on your engine.
Check the codes to confirm that the onboard computer is choosing to shift under the correct conditions.
Or, get your local Dodge dealer (before they go bankrupt) to run the computer-diagnosis.
Your overdrive should kick in at about 45mph, pretty much at or about 2000rpm. To see if it engaged, lightly touch the brake pedal and it will disengage.It should also disengage when you mash the pedal down to go into passing gear, and re-engage when conditions "normalize" again. You can tell that it has engaged because the tach will drop a few hundred rpms. If it's not doing this, a simple trans oil change (with filter) may correct the problem. OD is activated by a shift solenoid on the valve body that may be a bit gummed up. 95's show a shift control module on some diagrams I've seen, but not on others. I read this as a possible "half-year change" So you may or not have one. If you do, I'd check that as well!
×