How many lubrication fittings are there on a 1999 Buick LaSabre?

Brake Hose Bracket Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 128 Nm (94 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm Bumper .................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 165 Nm (121 lb ft)
Shock Absorber to Control Arm Bolts .................... 27 Nm (20 lb ft)
Shock Absorber Upper Nut .................... 11 Nm (100 lb in)
Splash Shield to Steering Knuckle Bolts .................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft)
Stabilizer Bar Bracket to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 33 Nm (24 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Outer Tie Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts .................... 24 Nm (18 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 100 Nm (74 lb ft)
Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 190 Nm (140 lb ft)
Adjuster Tube Clamp Nut .................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Frame Nut .................... 99 Nm (73 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Steering Gear Nut .................... 250 Nm (184 ft. lbs.)
Relay Rod to Re Rod Nut .................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Frame Bracket Nut .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)

None--Unless New Outer Tie Rod Ends--Then 2

Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.

To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;

Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing side-to-side movement.
Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is generally OK.

It is connected to the left steering knuckle (behind the left front wheel). Very difficult to see without removing the wheel.

You could have a bad tie rod end, Idler arm, pitman arm, wheel bearing or ball joint. All of these will normally cause a vibration also. Check by jacking the front end one side at a time and moving the tire back and forth on front and back and in and out on top and bottom. Either watch or have someone else watch the steering assembly for movement and where it is. If there is no unusual movement, it is more than likely an alignment problem or tire problem.

Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
   • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
     Steering components
     
     
   • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
   • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
   • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
     
     
   • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
     
     
   • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
   • Relay rod from the vehicle
3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
6. Clean the threads on the ball studs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Relay rod to the vehicle
   • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
   • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
   • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
   • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
   • Tie rod ends
   • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
   • Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

hope this helps...

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.